March 29, 2024, 09:10:43 AM

Author Topic: N5C Build Tips  (Read 1713 times)

Offline HelisRock!

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N5C Build Tips
« on: June 18, 2017, 06:40:12 PM »
I just finished building my first Synergy, an N5C.  What a beautiful bird, feels really high quality and everything seems very well engineered and smooth as silk.

There were a couple of things that caught me, so here are some tips that will hopefully help someone else:

- In the Fuel Tank (page 1) I was going to use an OS Bubbleless Clunk, but it doesn't fit through the opening.

- Yes, the skid tube plugs (page 2) are too tight.  Scrape them down until you get a nice tight fit, then glue them in.

- When building the Servo Tray Module (page 5), look carefully at the rearmost servo, the servo balls are on the inside of the arms.  I built all three arms without looking closely enough at the picture.

- I followed the manual, but it *might* be easier to install the engine and fan shroud before the fuel tank (page 13).

- There's a lot of linkages (starting on page 19), get a Boto-sizer and Ball Link Tools (I had these:  http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=RVO1009) and take your time.

- On the Front Transmission (page 24), the 100-372 M3x12 Set Screw should be tightened snuggly against the 320-406 11mm Pin, definitely use loctite.  I also used a small sliver of 1/2" shrink tube around the bottom of the 320-118 18T Bevel Gear as extra insurance to prevent the pin from backing out.

- On the Front Transmission (page 24), the Top Bearing Block is not straight across (unlike bottom bearing block), it's slightly V shaped.  Bottom of V goes toward the back.

- On the Tail Boom (page 27), slip the TT into the boom, but don't slide the 115-114 Tail Control Guides and the 610-128 Boom Support Clamp onto the boom quite yet.

- On the Tail Control Rod (page 29), you might want to install the 107-100 Ball Links onto the 305-311 Tail Push Rod Ends first.  I used a Ball Link Tool and a drill (clamp down lightly!) to spin them on.  Slide the 115-114 Tail Control Guides onto the Rod, along with the shrink, before using JB Weld to glue on the Push Rod ends.

- Build up the entire Tail Box Assembly (pages 31-35) before page 30.  Dry fit the boom, TT and Tail Box, make sure everything turns smoothly, then mark the location of the hole to drill in order to pin the boom (page 36).  It's so much easier to dry fit, pull the boom and drill the hole before page 30.  With the boom drilled, slide on the 115-114 Tail Control Guides (and Tail Control Rod) and the 610-128 Boom Support Clamp, fit the Tail Box, pin the boom, then install the entire assembly (page 30).  Make sure the Tail Fin is vertical and tighten up the Main Boom Clamps.

- As with all tails, you may need the Boto-sizer to make everything buttery smooth.

- When installing the Main Gear (page 40), make sure the 100-325A M3x25 Special Bolt goes thru the 610-147 Auto Hub Sleeve (page 39).  While getting all the collars in the right places I moved the Main Shaft up and down, and I didn't notice that the Auto Hub Sleeve "climbed up" the main shaft.  If the Special Bolt doesn't go through the hole in the Auto Hub Sleeve, you get no One Way, and you'll scratch your head until you look into the bowels of the frame.

Hope this prevents you from having to undo work and makes for a smoother build!




Offline R6Pilot

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Re: N5C Build Tips
« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2018, 03:22:57 PM »
I just finished building my first Synergy, an N5C.  What a beautiful bird, feels really high quality and everything seems very well engineered and smooth as silk.

There were a couple of things that caught me, so here are some tips that will hopefully help someone else:

- In the Fuel Tank (page 1) I was going to use an OS Bubbleless Clunk, but it doesn't fit through the opening.

- Yes, the skid tube plugs (page 2) are too tight.  Scrape them down until you get a nice tight fit, then glue them in.

- When building the Servo Tray Module (page 5), look carefully at the rearmost servo, the servo balls are on the inside of the arms.  I built all three arms without looking closely enough at the picture.

- I followed the manual, but it *might* be easier to install the engine and fan shroud before the fuel tank (page 13).

- There's a lot of linkages (starting on page 19), get a Boto-sizer and Ball Link Tools (I had these:  http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=RVO1009) and take your time.

- On the Front Transmission (page 24), the 100-372 M3x12 Set Screw should be tightened snuggly against the 320-406 11mm Pin, definitely use loctite.  I also used a small sliver of 1/2" shrink tube around the bottom of the 320-118 18T Bevel Gear as extra insurance to prevent the pin from backing out.

- On the Front Transmission (page 24), the Top Bearing Block is not straight across (unlike bottom bearing block), it's slightly V shaped.  Bottom of V goes toward the back.

- On the Tail Boom (page 27), slip the TT into the boom, but don't slide the 115-114 Tail Control Guides and the 610-128 Boom Support Clamp onto the boom quite yet.

- On the Tail Control Rod (page 29), you might want to install the 107-100 Ball Links onto the 305-311 Tail Push Rod Ends first.  I used a Ball Link Tool and a drill (clamp down lightly!) to spin them on.  Slide the 115-114 Tail Control Guides onto the Rod, along with the shrink, before using JB Weld to glue on the Push Rod ends.

- Build up the entire Tail Box Assembly (pages 31-35) before page 30.  Dry fit the boom, TT and Tail Box, make sure everything turns smoothly, then mark the location of the hole to drill in order to pin the boom (page 36).  It's so much easier to dry fit, pull the boom and drill the hole before page 30.  With the boom drilled, slide on the 115-114 Tail Control Guides (and Tail Control Rod) and the 610-128 Boom Support Clamp, fit the Tail Box, pin the boom, then install the entire assembly (page 30).  Make sure the Tail Fin is vertical and tighten up the Main Boom Clamps.

- As with all tails, you may need the Boto-sizer to make everything buttery smooth.

- When installing the Main Gear (page 40), make sure the 100-325A M3x25 Special Bolt goes thru the 610-147 Auto Hub Sleeve (page 39).  While getting all the collars in the right places I moved the Main Shaft up and down, and I didn't notice that the Auto Hub Sleeve "climbed up" the main shaft.  If the Special Bolt doesn't go through the hole in the Auto Hub Sleeve, you get no One Way, and you'll scratch your head until you look into the bowels of the frame.

Hope this prevents you from having to undo work and makes for a smoother build!
Good info. Thank you.  I almost bought the bubbleless clunk when I was gathering parts. 

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