Synergy Tech Support
Synergy Nitro Helicopters => Synergy N5 / N5c => Topic started by: bgymr on May 07, 2016, 11:24:37 PM
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Any suggestion on how to get the elevator arm (the one between the frames) to stop slipping? If I hold my servo still, I can push down on the swash and that little arm won't hold. Any suggestions?!
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Have tightened the set screw thru the base of the arm? Secure it with loctite when u do! Reference page 18 of the manual.
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Replace the elevator bell crank shaft that goes through the frame. If the heli was crashed hard enough it's possible that it's stripped and will never hold the set screw again.
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If the screw has loosened up ever, or has been in a bad crash you will likely need to replace the parts. Make sure if you start with new parts you use plenty of blue loctite on the set screw, tighten properly and you will never again have a problem. (until you crash :o) I have hundreds of flights on my N5c, even had a few light crashes and have never had to touch the bellcrank system
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I had the same issue after a crash. once that bell crank shaft and bell crank have been crashed hard, they must be replaced. the set screw just wont hold it properly again after that.
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Thank you everyone.
I replaced the shaft we will see how it goes.
If anyone has trouble with the shaft in the future the way I took it off is by taking hte main shaft out. I then removed the two screws on either end to take off the two bell cranks for the the rear of the swash. I then cut the shaft twice to get the piece out of the middle while it's still on the shaft.
I then heated it up and the shaft came out pretty easily.
It owuldn't just come out.
I replaced only the shaft, I didn't have the spare bell crank or elevator arm. Let's see what happens.
Thanks again, especially Lwilliams!
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My bellcrank shaft bent after a crash and I am now stocking up on them.
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one last thing about the fastener ...be sure it is a flat ended grub screw on the elevator bell crank
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I would also grind down the end of the 4mm set screw so the surface has a contact area that is flatter.
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grinding the end of the setscrew defeats the purpose of using a setscrew, at that point you are turning it into a SHCS with a flat tip. a setscrew has a cup point on it. when you tighten it down, the cup point engagement is what really allows the setscrew to bite whatever it is engaging. don't grind the end off of a setscrew, it will never hold like it should if you do this. next time you pull a setscrew that you haven ground off out, look at the shaft (or whatever it is engaging), and see the round indention in the shaft. that is the cup point engagement point.