May 02, 2024, 06:08:04 AM

Author Topic: 696 vs 716/106 vs 116  (Read 8879 times)

Offline Chris Sexton

  • Factory Specialist
  • Synergy Hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 2729
  • Admiral, There be whales here!
Re: 696 vs 716/106 vs 116
« Reply #15 on: July 15, 2015, 04:36:11 PM »
No I meant what I said. The 716s and 106s can touch. It takes just the right inputs but I have tipped a couple. Matt did up a drawing that shows the blade lengths that can touch I just can't find it. 716/106 you should pull the box back a few mm to be safe. 116s are 10mm longer. You can't get the tail box far enough to be 100% safe. Can it done sure if you are easy on the cyclic and collective at the same time. But again I don't recommend 716/116 combination on an E7se.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Chris Sexton
Synergy Factory Specialist / Rail Blades / Team Scorpion

Offline Cliff Chmiel

  • Synergy Veteran
  • *
  • Posts: 588
  • Cliff
Re: 696 vs 716/106 vs 116
« Reply #16 on: July 16, 2015, 07:14:43 AM »
On my e7se running 716 and 106 tails , I only pulled the boom back til the first boom mount so boom does not touch trans mount. Now im a little worried maybe I should move it back more.
Cliff

Offline Chris Sexton

  • Factory Specialist
  • Synergy Hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 2729
  • Admiral, There be whales here!
Re: 696 vs 716/106 vs 116
« Reply #17 on: July 16, 2015, 09:38:37 AM »
On my e7se running 716 and 106 tails , I only pulled the boom back til the first boom mount so boom does not touch trans mount. Now im a little worried maybe I should move it back more.

You are correct, you for sure want to make sure the front of the boom is flush with the front of the forward boom clamp as to prevent it pushing on the transmission.  But you should pull the tail box back 4mm from fully seated to insure proper clearance.

Odds are that if you haven't had an impact now, you are good. It really does take a very aggressive combination of inputs to do, but I am of the mind better safe than sorry.  Matt built this flexibility into the tail box to allow us to adjust as needed. It's a great feature!
Chris Sexton
Synergy Factory Specialist / Rail Blades / Team Scorpion

Offline Cliff Chmiel

  • Synergy Veteran
  • *
  • Posts: 588
  • Cliff
Re: 696 vs 716/106 vs 116
« Reply #18 on: July 16, 2015, 10:41:16 AM »
I have about 25 flights now with inverted full power pull outs while doing slow piros , looks cool, hard front and back flips, no real hard pitch pumps yet. When I get home I will check the tips of my tail blades
Cliff

Offline Cliff Chmiel

  • Synergy Veteran
  • *
  • Posts: 588
  • Cliff
Re: 696 vs 716/106 vs 116
« Reply #19 on: July 16, 2015, 10:54:00 AM »
And I do pin the boom at the front mount and back at the tail box
Cliff

Offline Rob Cherry

  • Factory Pilot
  • Sr. Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 341
Re: 696 vs 716/106 vs 116
« Reply #20 on: July 16, 2015, 08:45:14 PM »
Yes, I just found that post after some searching.  Chris mentions you should move the tail box back 5mm if using 716's with 116's.  Anyone run this combo without moving the tail box back?
With moderately aggressive fbl settings they will eventually interfere with each other. Is this an SE with the 4.9 tail ratio? 106s at 10k rpm provide optimal thrust, which is about 2050-2100 rpm. What head speed are you targeting??

Rob

Synergy Factory Pilot

Offline Cliff Chmiel

  • Synergy Veteran
  • *
  • Posts: 588
  • Cliff
Re: 696 vs 716/106 vs 116
« Reply #21 on: July 17, 2015, 07:28:07 AM »
Im running 1850 1950 2050 most of the time im at 1950 ship is so smooth there, stock se tail ratio
Cliff

Offline PushTheReset

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 10
Re: 696 vs 716/106 vs 116
« Reply #22 on: July 20, 2015, 08:04:08 AM »
Quote
With moderately aggressive fbl settings they will eventually interfere with each other. Is this an SE with the 4.9 tail ratio? 106s at 10k rpm provide optimal thrust, which is about 2050-2100 rpm. What head speed are you targeting??

Yes, this is the stock E7SE...stock ratio.  I am running rail 116s along with a set of 690 radix blades (FB) that I had.  I got the E7 recently and I am still experimenting with it.  I fly my E5 most of the time.  I wanted to get some FBL main blades so I purchased the 716's because I went on to the Synergy store and it said they were for the E7SE.  When I installed the main blades I noticed the 716's were close to the tail blades so I did some checking before flying to be on the safe side.  I then found out there are some incompatibility issues and the tail box has to be moved back.  I really don't feel like pulling the tail gear case back.  Can I just run the rail 96s without moving the box back? 
I wish my transmitter had a reset button.

Offline Chris Sexton

  • Factory Specialist
  • Synergy Hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 2729
  • Admiral, There be whales here!
Re: 696 vs 716/106 vs 116
« Reply #23 on: July 20, 2015, 08:07:23 AM »
Quote
With moderately aggressive fbl settings they will eventually interfere with each other. Is this an SE with the 4.9 tail ratio? 106s at 10k rpm provide optimal thrust, which is about 2050-2100 rpm. What head speed are you targeting??

Yes, this is the stock E7SE...stock ratio.  I am running rail 116s along with a set of 690 radix blades (FB) that I had.  I got the E7 recently and I am still experimenting with it.  I fly my E5 most of the time.  I wanted to get some FBL main blades so I purchased the 716's because I went on to the Synergy store and it said they were for the E7SE.  When I installed the main blades I noticed the 716's were close to the tail blades so I did some checking before flying to be on the safe side.  I then found out there are some incompatibility issues and the tail box has to be moved back.  I really don't feel like pulling the tail gear case back.  Can I just run the rail 96s without moving the box back?

716/106 tails are the way to go. Pulling the tail box back is simple takes 3 minutes.  96mm tails will work but under hard loading the tail will be easier to kick out as the 716s bite a hard and the 96mm tails have less thrust than the bird was designed for.
Chris Sexton
Synergy Factory Specialist / Rail Blades / Team Scorpion

Offline PushTheReset

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 10
Re: 696 vs 716/106 vs 116
« Reply #24 on: July 20, 2015, 10:09:35 AM »
3 minutes?  I will have to remove the boom, pull the torque tube, re-drill a new hole for the M3 x 6 button head bolt, clean the torque tube of the metal bits that get in there from the drilling, and then un-screw the ball links on the control rod to make it longer.  Is there an easier way? 
I wish my transmitter had a reset button.

Offline Chris Sexton

  • Factory Specialist
  • Synergy Hero
  • *****
  • Posts: 2729
  • Admiral, There be whales here!
Re: 696 vs 716/106 vs 116
« Reply #25 on: July 20, 2015, 11:48:35 AM »
3 minutes?  I will have to remove the boom, pull the torque tube, re-drill a new hole for the M3 x 6 button head bolt, clean the torque tube of the metal bits that get in there from the drilling, and then un-screw the ball links on the control rod to make it longer.  Is there an easier way?

OK so maybe 5 minutes  ;)

I pull the tail box, don't need to pull the TT just be careful when you drill :)  Yes blow out all the metal chips and adjust tail rod.

Either way much better in the long run than trying to run undersized blades, in my opinion.
Chris Sexton
Synergy Factory Specialist / Rail Blades / Team Scorpion

Offline PushTheReset

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 10
Re: 696 vs 716/106 vs 116
« Reply #26 on: July 20, 2015, 12:11:37 PM »
LOL-  I don't mind doing it.  I probably will not be able to get to it this week and I'm planning on attending HOD in Delaware this weekend and want to fly the E7 with better blades.  Any vendors/Synergy reps going to be at Helis Over Delaware that have some rail 696's they will trade for rail 716s?  I just got the 716s last week- they have not seen any flight time. 
I wish my transmitter had a reset button.

Offline Rob Cherry

  • Factory Pilot
  • Sr. Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 341
Re: 696 vs 716/106 vs 116
« Reply #27 on: July 20, 2015, 10:59:37 PM »
Keep in mind, the possible interference I mentioned is with the 716/116 combo. The 716/106 combo is nearly impossible to interfere. If it does happen, that's a ton of flex going on and you'd also likely be near boom strike territory. :)  typically this would require extremely aggressive flying.
Synergy Factory Pilot

Offline PushTheReset

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 10
Re: 696 vs 716/106 vs 116
« Reply #28 on: July 21, 2015, 05:42:17 AM »
Quote
Keep in mind, the possible interference I mentioned is with the 716/116 combo. The 716/106 combo is nearly impossible to interfere. If it does happen, that's a ton of flex going on and you'd also likely be near boom strike territory. :)  typically this would require extremely aggressive flying.

Rob, I did purchase a set of 106 tail blades with the 716s.  Are you saying that if I go with the 716/106 combo, I don't have to move the tail box back unless I am a very aggressive pilot?  I don't fly crazy 3D.  I fly mostly big air stuff with the occasional piro flip mixed in but I am definitely not a stick banger. 
I wish my transmitter had a reset button.

Offline Rob Cherry

  • Factory Pilot
  • Sr. Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 341
Re: 696 vs 716/106 vs 116
« Reply #29 on: July 21, 2015, 07:16:47 AM »
I apologize for the confusion. Chris's method is an approved synergy modification to ensure there will never be interference for all flight styles using 716s. I only confused the issue, ignore me! I owe Chris lunch now for stepping on his feet. :D
Synergy Factory Pilot