May 07, 2024, 03:19:05 PM

Author Topic: N5C versus N7  (Read 9853 times)

Offline Dean H

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Re: N5C versus N7
« Reply #45 on: April 05, 2016, 10:37:56 AM »
What's their shipping usually cost?
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Offline Rodney Kirstine

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Re: N5C versus N7
« Reply #46 on: April 05, 2016, 01:52:40 PM »
I just looked at my past orders and the shipping was $15, or less.  When you order, you put your stuff in the cart and start checking out.  They'll send you an email with the total, including shipping, and then you can complete your order.  Google will convert Japanese Yen to US dollars so you can see how much the order is going to be.
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Offline Gabriel Sandoval

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Re: N5C versus N7
« Reply #47 on: April 05, 2016, 03:38:16 PM »
I have both the Hatori and Power Boost pipes for my .55 HZ/N5c. I am needing to install new bearings for this season and might just try the PB pipe to see if it makes more power or less than the Hatori. This weekend will tell the tale... ;D
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Offline Chris Sexton

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Re: N5C versus N7
« Reply #48 on: April 05, 2016, 05:48:13 PM »
I've got a fun tech in great shape if you are interested. pM me.


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Offline Dean H

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Re: N5C versus N7
« Reply #49 on: April 05, 2016, 05:56:35 PM »
Thanks for the offer but I went ahead and ordered a Hatori SAB-1. I couldn't wait! Alan is shipping out the kit tomorrow and everything else should be here by next week.
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Offline Dean H

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Re: N5C versus N7
« Reply #50 on: April 06, 2016, 05:17:04 AM »
I'm trying to get a picture of what is typically used for Rx/FBL power setup? Do you guys use a regulator if using HV servos? It doesn't seem necessary other than to provide an on/off switch. I'm thinking about going with a 2S LiPo directly to the CGY750, a Perfect Regulators glow igniter and an Ultraguard for backup power. Any suggestions?

My only concern is one servo lead going from the LiPo to the CGY. I could make a lead to go from the LiPo to two servo leads into the CGY but that would be a point of failure that I would like to eliminate. I have a Grypon regulator that provides two leads out to the CGY, but, again, I'm trying to eliminate failure points. I would like to have a switch to turn off the CGY as well. I have  the Futaba switch that came with my 18SZ.

 
Dino
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Offline Mike Spano

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Re: N5C versus N7
« Reply #51 on: April 06, 2016, 08:23:24 AM »
don't use a switch, no matter what brand, they all end up failing. the perfect regulator is the best option, bc when it fails, it fails on, not off...

for the n5c, one lead into the unit should be fine, I have run N7's like that before when doing testing, and flew them hard. BUT, you don't want to constantly put a connector on the unit and pull it off, you will wear down the plug, and the prongs in the unit.

what I do is make a harness with an EC3 at one end, and 2 servo leads at the other. all soldered together. I use about 4" of small braided wire, like is coming out of the RX pack originally, to solder the EC3 to, and then I convert to servo wire at that point (the largest servo wire you can find). you don't want to be pulling on the servo wire/braided wire joint a lot, it can break if so, so use enough braided wire that you never have to pull on it. I also take the EC3 that I put on the harness, and fill the back of it (where the wires are soldered into the bullets and stuck into the blue plastic) and fill that area with hot glue. that will help keep the wire/solder joint from being flexed around a bunch also.

by keeping it simple, you are eliminating failure points. I have a few backup guards, but I don't have them installed, I have only even had one instance where one would have helped me, and it wouldn't have saved me anyway really, just kept power to the servos until I hit the ground....not saying don't use it, by all means use it if you have it, just try to keep it as simple as possible.
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Offline Gabriel Sandoval

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Re: N5C versus N7
« Reply #52 on: April 06, 2016, 02:39:25 PM »
I run a Perfect Regulators Duo thingy with a remote glow adapter for the fire. I like them simple and clean without possible failure points.
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Offline Dean H

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Re: N5C versus N7
« Reply #53 on: April 08, 2016, 06:02:42 AM »
I like simple! :) Thanks guys!

I think I'll go ahead and use the Gryphon 5010 regulator with the pull pin switch since I already have it and it worked without issue on my other heli. The switch fails to the "on" position just like the Perfect Regulators Duo thing. :) That way alll I have to purchase is the Perfect Regulators glow igniter.

BTW, are hot start only something to worry about when doing autos?

Dino
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Offline Richard Rollins

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Re: N5C versus N7
« Reply #54 on: April 08, 2016, 06:54:58 AM »
Hot starts are usually on initial starting the engine without a throttle hold set.
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Offline Dean H

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Re: N5C versus N7
« Reply #55 on: April 08, 2016, 07:40:28 AM »
Oh, okay, thanks! So, simple to mitigate following a good start up procedure. The first thing I do on my electrics is flip on TH after turning on the Tx. I thought it might have to do with a already hot engine/pre-ignition type of thing.
Dino
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Offline Gabriel Sandoval

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Re: N5C versus N7
« Reply #56 on: April 08, 2016, 10:05:21 AM »
The main thing to watch is that the servo direction is set right. This is where most hot starts come from. Thinking the engine is set at idle when in fact it is wide open begging to eat up the clutch liner.
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Offline Dean H

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Re: N5C versus N7
« Reply #57 on: April 10, 2016, 07:09:42 AM »
Thanks, Gabriel! I've put that on my preflight checklist.
Dino
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Offline Paul66

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Re: N5C versus N7
« Reply #58 on: April 11, 2016, 05:04:30 AM »
HI All
N5 and N5c are still my favourite Heli's since restarting flying 3 years ago and still keep picking them up every time I go to the field, they just fly so predictably and stable, they are quite big, considering they are a 600. Probably run both into the ground and need some serious maintenance as the weather in OZ QLD never really bad, so will have to take them to the bench shortly and do a complete rebuild, but I can testify to there crash resistance, and autorotation's are a breeze on these machine. I am sure you will not be disappointed.
Chris you mentioned the align starter is a jack hammer!! do you think the starter may have some detrimental impact on the clutch system?

Cheers
Paul

Offline Danny Dugger

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Re: N5C versus N7
« Reply #59 on: April 11, 2016, 08:18:14 PM »


Chris you mentioned the align starter is a jack hammer!! do you think the starter may have some detrimental impact on the clutch system?

Cheers
Paul

It's hard on the 6mm hex starter cup, one way bearings, and the pinch collar on the fan hub.