Electronic Assembly Help

[flyalan]

yes a wood block works great.  I have a Weller 200/300 watt soldiering gun for doing bullet connectors.  Really puts out the heat and being a gun is off when not in use.  Have to watch it with deans connectors though.  It will melt them quickly especially on 300W.

Cheers
Alan


Alan Butler
Team Synergy

[RichL]

The PRC6 connectors are great.  It takes a little practice to get them soldiered perfectly but, with a rating of 200A they will take everything you can throw at them.  They accommodate wire as large as 8AWG without a problem.   Progressive RC also makes a great soldiering stand that will securely hold most connector sizes that we use in the RC world.  The stand is built from some type of thermoplastic that doesn't melt in the course of normal soldering work.  The stand holds your connectors securely without heat-sinking.  The stand also includes a pivoting, height adjustable arm that is perfect for soldiering heavy ESC and Battery wires.  Here is a link for those who wish to take a look.  http://www.progressiverc.com/progressiverc-soldering-stand.html

Rich

 

[NKY Heli Guy]

Hey all I finally received my E5 today!!!!
I've got the fuselage almost complete and I'm at the point where I have to install my tail servo. To find the center point of my servo Id like to use and old receiver battery pack 4.8v 1500mah nimh plugged into my ar7200bx (receiver). Can I do this being its a 4.8v pack and the servos are 6-7v? I don't want to screw anything up electronically Do I need to find the center point at this step? Don't want to build it to find out I need to take it apart again.


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[flyalan]

That will work fine. I keep an old receiver pack around for that reason. And yes it's ok with HV servos.
I prefer to wait until the tail servo is mounted but you can do it either way.
Glad to hear you are building now.
Keep us posted!

Cheers
Alan


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[NKY Heli Guy]

So you can get your fingers in there to put on the horn when the frame is together? That would be awesome


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[RichL]

So you can get your fingers in there to put on the horn when the frame is together? That would be awesome


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Yea, without issue.

Rich

[NKY Heli Guy]

Thanks guys! Also the manual mentions having to trim down the servo horn but it shows the ball link installed on the last hole. I'm using BLS255's you think I'll need to shave?


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[RichL]

Thanks guys! Also the manual mentions having to trim down the servo horn but it shows the ball link installed on the last hole. I'm using BLS255's you think I'll need to shave?


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I think there was a specific measurement in the manual for the distance out on the arm the ball needs to be.  Check it out the manual again.  If you are using the correct length arm on the "star" or four arm horn you will have to remove the bottom arm.

Rich

[NKY Heli Guy]

Excellent explanation will do


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[RichL]

Excellent explanation will do


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One other thing, don't randomly cut off a arm on the horn.  All of the arms will be in a slightly different position due to the off set of the splines in the horn it's self.  Only one will align perfectly and allow you to achieve a perfect 90 degree setup.

Rich

[NKY Heli Guy]

Yes, I found the one that lines up then cut the opposite (facing down) horn. So far this build is going super smooth! I can't believe the quality of each and every part.

The only other issue I see moving forward is pinning the boom. Are the screws or pins included? How precise must you be? What does Matt do pin or no pin?


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[Darren Lee]

The only other issue I see moving forward is pinning the boom.

http://synergyrchelicopters.com/forum/index.php?topic=1166.0

[NKY Heli Guy]

Thank you for that!

On page 25 per the manual the auto hub bronze bushing needs to have locktight applied to it. Do you recommend green or red locktight? And do you put it around the bushing (part that goes inside) or from the top after its in the housing? I'm scared some locktight will get into the bearing.


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[stevehof]

I've used red for that chore and it seems to work fine. Put a small 'bead' of Loctite around the middle of the circumference of the bronze bushing. When you push it in, the excess will bleed up to the top and just wipe it off.

[RichL]

I've used red for that chore and it seems to work fine. Put a small 'bead' of Loctite around the middle of the circumference of the bronze bushing. When you push it in, the excess will bleed up to the top and just wipe it off.

+1

Rich