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Blade grip removal on new kits

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Rodney Kirstine:
One item that I see come up fairly often is people having difficulty removing the screws in the ends of the head axle to remove the main blade grips.  I've never had any difficulties and I always wondered why others have such a hard time with it.  I think the reason people have a hard time is because they're not using the most effective tool for the job.  Breaking these free requires a good deal of torque, quite a bit more than one can apply with a screwdriver style tool (example MIP Thorp).  Even using T-handle drivers isn't ideal because the length of the driver puts the handles quite a distance away from the fastener and makes it more difficult to apply the torque effectively.

I believe the best tool for the job is two Allen key wrenches used in this orientation:




It makes the wrenches easy to handle and the length of the wrench allows a lot of torque to be applied.  After getting the first one is removed, use a grippy tool and one Allen key in the same orientation as before. 

If you don't have a set of Allen keys, I highly recommend this set.  Not only are they inexpensive but they are much higher quality than the Bondhus ones that I always see people recommend.  The field service technicians where I work used to go through a set of Bondhus wrenches in less than 6 months because they would just start rounding off.  Once they went to these, they only have to replace them if they break the ball end off or lose one.

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-12714-9-Piece-Extra-Long/dp/B000R6W2V2

I bought mine off of Ebay and they were only like $12.  Anyway, really high quality wrenches, especially at this price.

Chris Sexton:
Yep exactly what I do. Two Allen keys and a grippy for the second side.


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cml001:
Yep!

Mark Dean:
Thanks for the link Rodney! Two sets of those will complement my MIP set nicely.


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Cliff Chmiel:
I do the same, but put one allen in a vise, two hands on the other, do not use ball end. I'm old

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