Synergy Tech Support
Synergy Electric Helicopters => Synergy E5 => Topic started by: RichL on December 17, 2012, 03:51:52 AM
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All of these tools and supplies are common to Synergy "E" builds. Please pay attention to the items in red! Updated 2/01/2013
You may download a PDF version of this document by clicking the link at the bottom of this post.
Blue Locktite ( stick with the Locktite brand ) www.ronlund.com/rcheli-prod/TOOLAD/LOCTITE243.html
Red Locktite ( stick with the Locktite brand ) www.ronlund.com/rcheli-prod/TOOLAD/LOCTITE262.html
Medium CA (slow cure) (for sealing frames after sanding if desired, may also be used to attach TT bearings to TT if done with caution)
3M epoxy / JB Weld (slow curing for tail pitch control rod ends & boom support ends) www.ronlund.com/rcheli-prod/JBWELD.html
Small epoxy mixing cups www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK360&P=7
Popsicle / mixing sticks www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK359&P=M
Alcohol ( to remove oil from parts ) www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100118908/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=denatured+alcohol&storeId=10051#.UOP66ramD0A
Sandpaper 600 grit (frame edge sanding)
Bearing grease ( radial bearings I use Lubriplate EMB see data sheet attachment at the bottom of the page ) www.ronlund.com/rcheli-prod/TOOLLU/GREASE.html
Bearing Greaser (optional but a great tool) www.ronlund.com/rcheli-prod/GREASER.html
Boto Lube ( thrust bearings ) http://helidirect.com/synergy-boto-lube-extreme-pressure-grease-bd-001-p-28583.hdx
Plastic gear grease ( I use Moly Kote ) www.readyheli.com/TTRE9011-Plastic-Gear-Grease_p_38387.html
TriFlow (tail slider / main shaft) www.ronlund.com/rcheli-prod/TOOLLU/MA4802.html
Velcro (Used to hold down, ESC, BEC, FBL Unit (not sensor or units with internal sensors IE: Beastx, Mini Vbar), on Batteries / frame to prevent sliding (in addition to the straps) www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202261919/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=velcro&storeId=10051#.UOPxbLamD0A
3M double sided tape (FBL sensor) http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ecodZ5yc1v/R-203405976/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=2&langId=-1&keyword=double+sided+tape&storeId=10051#.UOPwwbamD0A
Heat shrink tubing (various sizes for motor connectors, battery connectors) www.espritmodel.com/heat-shrink-tubing-assortment-154.aspx
Heat Gun www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHZ16&P=ML
Solder, small diameter ( requires HW soldering station) www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062717
Wire ties / Zip ties (small 4")
Side cut pliers / diagonals
Wire strippers www.stripax.com/64869/Home/cwms_start.aspx
Soldering station / Iron http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=94C3885&CMP=KNC-GPLA&mckv=|pcrid|12534598581|plid|
T-Handel Hex Driver 4mm (2, each Required) www.wihatools.com/300seri/334serie.htm
Hex driver set 1.5mm - 5mm www.horizonhobby.com/products/jr-hex-driver-set-metric-6-pc-JRPA1205
Nut driver set 2mm - 4mm www.horizonhobby.com/products/jr-nut-driver-set-metric-4-pc-JRPA1206
Duo Grippy, Green (Required) (easy removal of head axle / bolts, bent main shaft, ) www.ronlund.com/rcheli-prod/GRPYDUO810.html (http://www.ronlund.com/rcheli-prod/GRPYDUO810.html)
3mm drill bit ( for boom and tail box pinning ) www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=42247&cat=1,180,42240
10mm drill bit (if using JR servos) www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=42247&cat=1,180,42240
Small "+" screw driver www.horizonhobby.com/products/jr-screwdriver-set-3-pc-JRPA1209
Boto sizer (Required) www.fblrotors.com/Boto-Sizer-Ball-Link-Sizing-Tool_p_19.html
Calipers ( makes measuring and setting up links a breeze, eventually you are going to have set might as well start with them. ) www.ronlund.com/rcheli-prod/TOOLSE/MTI500-196-20.html
Pitch gauge ( I like digital but opinions may vary) http://helidirect.com/rc-logger-digital-pitch-gauge-2-p-27727.hdx (http://helidirect.com/rc-logger-digital-pitch-gauge-2-p-27727.hdx)
Ball link pliers for 5.5mm ball (Required) ( Standard sized ball link pliers will damage the 5.5mm balls. ) www.fblrotors.com/FBL-Ball-Link-Pliers-for-Synergy-55-Links_p_458.html
Swash plate leveling tool 10mm www.fblrotors.com/FBL-Swashplate-Tool-Bonus-includes-Synergy-blade-holder_p_440.html
Square "L" shaped or triangle (optional for tail box and frame alignment) www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32601&cat=1,42936,42941
Scissors (for cutting Velcro, heat shrink)
Scorpion Backup Guard (B.U.G.) (Cheap Insurance but not required) www.scorpionsystem.com/catalog/accessories/backup_guard/S_Backup_Guard/
Dremel Tool / Flat file small ( if you use the Scorpion HKIII 4025 you will need to grind or file a flat spot on the motor shaft for the pinion set screw to seat against. If you skip this step your pinion will rotate on the shaft. Locktite is not a substitute for grinding a flat spot on the motor shaft. Locktite will not prevent the pinion from rotating on the shaft! Using Locktite on the pinion / motor shaft is not recommended, the only exception being the setscrew )
Programming kit for ESC (such as Castle link etc.) http://helidirect.com/castle-creation-link-usb-programming-kit-010-0005-00-p-311.hdx
Programming kit for BEC (Castle) http://helidirect.com/castle-creation-link-usb-programming-kit-010-0005-00-p-311.hdx
Programming kit for FBL unit (V-bar cable included requires PC / Mac)
Servo lead extension, (Heavy Duty 22AWG minimum) 8 - 12 inches 2 ea. if using Scorpion B.U.G.) for ESC to Receiver or FBL Unit www.horizonhobby.com/products/servo-extension-12-inch-heavy-duty-gold-JRPA098
Bullet connectors motor to ESC (I use Scorpion 6.5mm. Note: The Scorpion HKIII 4025 1100KV motor has factory installed "banana" type connectors on the power wires, it is highly recommended that they be replaced with a connector with more contact surface area. ) http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXTJJ0&P=8
Bullet connectors ESC to Battery (I use PRC6, the ESC requires 1 pair, each battery requires 1 pair, don't forget the charge cable) www.progressiverc.com/prc6-connectors-2-pairs.html
3mm x 6mm button head same as part number 101-306 (2ea if pinning tail and boom) www.experiencerc.com/store/101-306_m3x6mm_button_head_bolt-p-1070.html?osCsid=562fbc4172976d4060ad13fc8e613a81
Collective Servo wheels for Futaba: FUTM2020 Futaba Servo Horn (wheel) S28/S48 www.readyheli.com/FUTM2020-Futaba-Servo-Horn-S28S48-D-Wheel_p_32814.html
Collective Servo wheels for JR: JRPA217 JR HD Small Servo Wheels w/Screws www.readyheli.com/JRPA217-JR-HD-Small-Servo-Wheels-wScrews_p_34578.html
Futaba Tail Servo Horn FUTM2030 A S28/S48 (X Shape) www.readyheli.com/FUTM2030-Futaba-Servo-Horn-A-S28S48-X-Shape_p_32815.html
Rich
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Great list for when I get my new tools. What about the new Boto lube?
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Ill add it to the list. :)
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FBL Rotors is are out of the ball link pliers is there another supplier?
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FBL Rotors is are out of the ball link pliers is there another supplier?
Not that I'm aware of. You could grind a standard pair to fit. Did you ask Ralph when they would be in stock again?
Rich
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No one else makes Synergy specific ball link pliers. Sorry.
You can take an old ball link pliers and Drummel the part which goes around the ball.
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I have found it is better to lube to TT bearing supports with denatured alcohol instead of oil or silicon. It works just as good for lubrication but evaporates away, allowing the supports to stick. Just soak a cotton ball or rag with alcohol and push it through with the TT. I usually use the tail gearbox to push the shaft through so you know it is in the correct position and its easier on the hand.
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What store can I find the bearing grease and Moly Kote? Also why are the servo lead extensions needed, do the servos not reach to the esc? Oh yeah, I'm not sure what type of oil I have. How would I know if I have triflo, or would the scorpion motor oil be sufficient? And does the Boto lube substitute any of these oils/grease?
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I know I will be needing servo wire extensions in order to connect the ESC/BEC to the receiver. I have the receiver in the back so all servos reach it in my case.
For the thrust bearings I have always used automotive wheel bearing grease. It stays in place and coats well in my experience. I ordered the Scorpion motor bearing oil kit and Moly Kote from Ready Heli.
As far as Triflow goes, I use that on the main shaft and tail shaft. If you have it the bottle or pin point lubricator should have the name on it.
Regards,
Brandon Bartolomucci
Sent from my iPhone
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When I get back in town I'll look on it. Probably very small type. So moly more cant be found in a store? Guess I'll order now. Your first sentence, did you mean you do not need the extensions because they are in the back? Sorry, the first two sentences confused me a little. Thanks for the tips!
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Moly Kote is not popping up at ready Heli or Heli direct. Also where do you find JB weld?
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For the servos themselves I won't need extensions because the receiver is in the back but I'll need the extension wires to have the BEC/ESC signal wires reach the receiver be ause they will be in the front. Same extensions but instead of using them for servos I'm using them for the signal wires of the ESC.
The Moly Kote at Ready Heli is listed as plastic gear grease. Sorry about that. Here's a link:
http://www.readyheli.com/TTRE9011-Plastic-Gear-Grease_p_38387.html
JB Weld:
http://www.readyheli.com/JBWR8276-JB-WELD-Welding-Compound-4-Minute_p_34140.html
Regards,
Brandon Bartolomucci
Sent from my iPhone
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JB Weld- any Walmart or auto parts store. My favorite when attaching carbon to aluminum.
Inserting TT bearing assemblies- never use lubricant that would/could allow o-rings to spin. I have always used Window cleaner, as it evaporates. I have witnessed a tail boom shear off due to lubricant used on the o-rings and they started spinning after time and literally cut the tail boom off!
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Cool i'll use window cleaner too. Thanks for the links and understanding if the extension. Hate to ask too many questions but is there a specific extension to get and where can they be found?
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Ok found what and where they are. Any specific one for futaba servos or just get the jr or protek one and connect it? Great, thought I'd have to solder or take the servo apart.
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Just found the servo ext. at servos and stuff. Way better price then amainhobbies and they had the futaba style. I order 6 to be safe.
Also order my JB weld and moly Kote from ready Heli. I THINK I finally have everything ordered. Forgot to order the swash leveler, will order that tonight. Found a better price on one then the Trublood. Wanted that one but it was between that and the grippy. It's still a 10mm but have to stop spending.
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Just be careful with products that have ammonia in them as the ammonia can break down certain plastics and rubber( Windex for example makes both an ammonia free version and one that has it in the solution). You should be fine in a small application as this but just a caution to be aware of.
Regards,
Brandon Bartolomucci
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Another good heads up, thanks. What would be a safe product to use then?
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If it were me I'd just look for an organic based window/glass cleaner. I mean you can pick up Windex just look for something that says ammonia free and you should be good to go.
Regards,
Brandon Bartolomucci
Sent from my iPhone
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For the servos themselves I won't need extensions because the receiver is in the back but I'll need the extension wires to have the BEC/ESC signal wires reach the receiver be ause they will be in the front. Same extensions but instead of using them for servos I'm using them for the signal wires of the ESC.
The Moly Kote at Ready Heli is listed as plastic gear grease. Sorry about that. Here's a link:
http://www.readyheli.com/TTRE9011-Plastic-Gear-Grease_p_38387.html (http://www.readyheli.com/TTRE9011-Plastic-Gear-Grease_p_38387.html)
Regards,
Brandon Bartolomucci
Brandon, the version of JB Weld that your link connects to is the "Quick Cure" version, Matt recommends the slow cure version be used (see the attachment below). I didn't see the slow cure version at Readyheli below is a new link. :o
http://www.ronlund.com/rcheli-prod/JBWELD.html (http://www.ronlund.com/rcheli-prod/JBWELD.html)
Rich
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Crap I already ordered it. Hopefully they can change the order. If not, is there a local store that would have it or must I order from Ron? Thanks!
Greg
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If you have any kind of local auto parts store but even places like Wal-Mart should have it in their automotive section.
Hmm that is the 4 minute compound. Well I shall see how it holds up then because that's what I used on my tail rod as it was the JB Weld I had on hand and that was the last stuff I had ordered. (Thought it was the regular stuff) I'll take a pair of pliers to it later today and see if it breaks free or holds up and report back.
Regards,
Brandon Bartolomucci
Sent from my iPhone
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Hope yours still holds up Brandon. I will run to pep boys when I get back in town and if its not there Home Depot and lowes are beside day other. Seems they are in every city lol.
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Agreed on the ammonia. My wife always has "organic" cleaning products and I use the 'Windex' name like 'Kleenex'.
I have used JB Weld Quick Set in a pinch and it seemed to work just fine, but if I had a choice it would be the one that you need 24 hours to set up.
inner3: you are becoming an addict... we love it! ;)
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I'm going to have to attend HA meetings (Helicopters Anonymous)
Just found a hobby store in Huntsville that has a swash leveler for 10mm. I'll pick that up. I've only been one time but its a huge store!
What about the Orange power or something like that. It's a degreaser too but safe for kitchen. Maybe that's too strong.
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The easiest thing to do is to spray it on the outside of the boom and see what kind of residue it leaves. In a pinch you could literally use spit to slide the o-ring/brg supports in. It isn't critical what you use as long as it doesn't a) damage bearings, plastic or o-rings and b) doesn't leave an oily surface. So I guess spit is the safest option :D
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Done that in a pinch before.
Regards,
Brandon Bartolomucci
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Luckily found the JB weld and swash leveler at this hobby shop. Man little more than online but at least I have it.
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I used to put oil on it, now I will use mucus. Lol, just regular spit, not nasty stuff.
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Haha the things we do to get a build done. It's amazing how fast the little stuff racks up the price tag though. You think you have everything ready for a build and then you need this and that and next thing you know you've got 100 or more in just miscellaneous building supplies.
Regards,
Brandon Bartolomucci
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Haha the things we do to get a build done. It's amazing how fast the little stuff racks up the price tag though. You think you have everything ready for a build and then you need this and that and next thing you know you've got 100 or more in just miscellaneous building supplies.
Regards,
Brandon Bartolomucci
Sent from my iPhone
Very true, I don't think any of us really want to know how much money we have spent on this "hobby". :o
Rich
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In answer to the many what is a Grippy and why do I need one questions. Here you go: Chimp Systems Proudly Announces: Grippy!! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_hlx5vlFHQ#ws)
Rich
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Picked up the JR tools yesterday. Excellent feel and quality. Can't wait to use them. But have to get my wife busy with something first. Lol
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I use the JR tool set all the time myself and let me just make you aware of this: they WILL teach you to not over tighten things. The bigger sizes will strip out screws and the smaller hex drivers and screw drivers will snap right off if you over tighten. I've had to order replacements 2 or 3 times for a few of the tools in the set.
When you don't over do it they work wonders, so in reality they're a good teacher. I always had a problem over tightening because I always felt "it needs just a bit more."
Regards,
Brandon Bartolomucci
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I used to think things had to be over tightened too until recently. No longer. TIme to start building!
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Good luck with your build. Hopefully you can already tell that we will be here to help as you move along.
Regards,
Brandon Bartolomucci
Sent from my iPhone
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Definitely, thanks! Things are moving pretty smooth so far. I am about to clean the tail parts now and loctite along with the front tail case, maybe rear also. Not looking forward to it, always feel like I'm no good at working on the tail or that I will do something wrong. Going to watch the video now of what Chris suggests for the tail and the frame. Thank goodness Chris made these videos!
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Just take your time and don't rush. There are a lot of pieces to the tail, but fortunately they go in fairly obvious places. The manual also has some great exploded views of the tail and head parts. Just zoom in if you need :) One of the many benefits to having a high rez digital manual ;)
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Haha I like having a paper copy in case something happened and I didn't have my computer or if Internet was down so I've been using my paper copy for now. I have the front transmission done, will probably do the tail after dinner. Then on to the frame!
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Hey guys, i know i have read it somewhere but cant find it,
What servo wheels are used for the cyclics?
Im using BLS253's but dont have the futaba servo wheels, only a set of align ones from my 600Pro.
Will these be the correct size for the CF servo arms that come with the kit?
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I believe they will fit. I have used both the align ones and Futaba ones.
Alan
Alan Butler
Team Synergy
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Hey guys, i know i have read it somewhere but cant find it,
What servo wheels are used for the cyclics?
Im using BLS253's but dont have the futaba servo wheels, only a set of align ones from my 600Pro.
Will these be the correct size for the CF servo arms that come with the kit?
For Futaba: FUTM2020 Futaba Servo Horn (wheel) S28/S48
Link: www.readyheli.com/FUTM2020-Futaba-Servo-Horn-S28S48-D-Wheel_p_32814.html (http://www.readyheli.com/FUTM2020-Futaba-Servo-Horn-S28S48-D-Wheel_p_32814.html)
For JR: JRPA217 JR HD Small Servo Wheels w/Screws
Link: http://www.readyheli.com/JRPA217-JR-HD-Small-Servo-Wheels-wScrews_p_34578.html (http://www.readyheli.com/JRPA217-JR-HD-Small-Servo-Wheels-wScrews_p_34578.html)
Rich
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Spit didn't work, had to use windex. Also had to use it to get the tail guides on. That was almost the most difficult part of the build. They were so tight I may not do CA. But probably will after everything is dialed in.
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JB Weld- any Walmart or auto parts store. My favorite when attaching carbon to aluminum.
Inserting TT bearing assemblies- never use lubricant that would/could allow o-rings to spin. I have always used Window cleaner, as it evaporates. I have witnessed a tail boom shear off due to lubricant used on the o-rings and they started spinning after time and literally cut the tail boom off!
Doh.. I used triflow red grease on my o rings.
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You know, I noticed a different manufacturer recommend greasing the o-rings before installing in the torque tube. I personally would not do this. I guess if you knew for certain the grease would not break down the o-rings, then that would be okay. I do not know what oil or grease was used in the incident I witnessed (I assume it was oil). I also do not know what material the o-rings were, which is probably the largest variable in all of this. For years they said do not use any lubricant with petroleum in it on the head dampers. I don't notice this announcement in manuals these days, so I don't know if it is assumed you will use a petroleum free grease or if the o-ring material has changed to be impervious to it.
I guess the opposite could happen with grease and o-rings, which would be the o-rings swell and it only hold them in the tail boom tighter!
I don't know that I would go to the trouble of pulling them out and cleaning them off. I am probably making more of a thing out of it than it really is!!!
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I just fill the sink up with warm water and a little bit of Dawn dish soap. Pour some of the soapy water down the TT, slides in easily
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My first TT heli. I'll leave it as it is for the time being, however next time I pull the tail, I'll take a look at it for any issues.
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I would use Tri-Flow to insert the O-rings. Hasn't been an issue and I know I can get it out later. If you use water or Windex removal will be difficult once it dries.
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I used the Tri-Flow pinpoint lubricator and just added a light coat and it went in with ease. Time will tell if there are any problems but I don't think there will be.
Regards,
Brandon Bartolomucci
Sent from my iPhone
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I don't think I've ever had to worry about getting the bearings back out of a TT. It's either undamaged or mangled when I get done with a crash (usually mangled). The alcohol on the cotton ball is the way to go. It's clean, quick and I have it there for cleaning screws and stuff anyway.
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Trying to finally do some programming and the stupid servo extensions I got which have the futaba end are not fitting in the AR8000. I checked to see if they will fit in the vbar and it does. Is this right or am I doing something wrong? Why would the spektrum ar8000 not fit all connectors? If this doesn't work I'm going to be super pissed.
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Greg, just cut the "fin / alignment spline" off of the side of the Futaba connector.
Rich
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Yeah that's what I did and it worked.
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Although not required an arbor press is always nice to have around the heli workbench.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-3552.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-3552.html)
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+1 great tool to have.
Rich
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Although not required an arbor press is always nice to have around the heli workbench.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-3552.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-3552.html)
lol how do you fit the square into the hole? I never used one but looked at the photo provided above.
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Although not required an arbor press is always nice to have around the heli workbench.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-3552.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-3552.html)
lol how do you fit the square into the hole? I never used one but looked at the photo provided above.
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You don't fit the square into the hole. :o There are different "fittings" available for arbor presses but, generally I use a socket the same diameter as the outside diameter of the bearing I want to press. The press provides smooth even pressure without having to tap or bang. I have found that in most cases as they relate to RC helicopters I generally only get to use the press for installing bearings. Heat seems to be the easiest method of bearing removal without damaging them. If the bearing is already damaged or worn out then I use the press to remove it.
Rich
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I also find myself using the arbor press to push the bullets out of my EC5 or PRC6 connectors when I solder the wrong one on. :) I keep a trex 250 feathering shaft around just for this.
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Heating the PRC6 connectors with a heat gun allows easy insertion and removal of the bullets.
Rich
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I saw a E5 this past weekend that the builder had not bothered to sand his frames. The frame rubbed through two of the ESC to motor connection wires as well as the backup battery connection wires and burned a hole in the frame. Sanding the frames is important, as is a good wire routing strategy. Carbon fiber is conductive, keep this in mind when routing wires and even though electric powered machines have much less vibration than nitro powered machines vibrations still exist. Vibration coupled with rough / sharp carbon fiber edges will eat through your wire insulation quickly. Paying attention to small details like these during the build saves time and money in the long run.
Rich
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I saw a E5 this past weekend that the builder had not bothered to sand his frames. The frame rubbed through two of the ESC to motor connection wires as well as the backup battery connection wires and burned a hole in the frame. Sanding the frames is important, as is a good wire routing strategy. Carbon fiber is conductive, keep this in mind when routing wires and even though electric powered machines have much less vibration than nitro powered machines vibrations still exist. Vibration coupled with rough / sharp carbon fiber edges will eat through your wire insulation quickly. Paying attention to small details like these during the build saves time and money in the long run.
Rich
Well said Rich. Sanding the frames is a must even on higher end frames like on the e5. 10 minutes of work that can save you a bad crash!
A goon friend of mine lost his G630 to a shorted sat wire. Wore through and shorted to the frame. Vbar reset and it was a total loss crash.
Sucks to see a bird go in and later find it was your fault ;(
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I saw a E5 this past weekend that the builder had not bothered to sand his frames. The frame rubbed through two of the ESC to motor connection wires as well as the backup battery connection wires and burned a hole in the frame. Sanding the frames is important, as is a good wire routing strategy. Carbon fiber is conductive, keep this in mind when routing wires and even though electric powered machines have much less vibration than nitro powered machines vibrations still exist. Vibration coupled with rough / sharp carbon fiber edges will eat through your wire insulation quickly. Paying attention to small details like these during the build saves time and money in the long run.
Rich
Fantastic advise and something that I'm sure a lot of people overlook in excitement of building a new Heli!!
A technique I use where wires are passing through the carbon frames or resting on the carbon is just run a bead of CA over the edges and let it dry. It leaves a nice smooth edge and some peice of mind.
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Yes, sanding is only half of it. You really need to seal it w/ CA. I use a small skewer or large toothpick. Get a small drop on it and run along the edge. Too big of a glob and you will have it run down the side of the frame. A soaked Q-Tip also works, just saturate it first or you will have the white fuzz stuck on the first run.
I usually spend almost as much time prepping the frames as I do the rest of the build... no joke.
We went one step further with our R/C cars and would polish the edge after sealing it. That way there was no chance at all of chaffing a wire during the race.
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I agree sanding frames is essential in the areas where wires are going past, also wire wrap or spiral wrap your wires.
another tip if you have allot of wire in one area is to use fuel tubing, it doesn't look as nice but it damn well does the job, I had allot of pressure on ESC wires on my old X5 and they were right on the frame edge, nothing I could do to stop it and I wanted some extra protection against the carbon on top of sanding, so I took some hobby fuel tubing, cut a piece the same length as the area to secure then carefully slit one side open and spread it over the edge, the I took some thin CA and a cloth and held the heli so I could drip the thin CA in between the tubing and the edge, this bonded the tubing to the frame, worked like a charm, just be very stingy with the CA so you don't drip it everywhere
(http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu244/Lojik86/X5%20Build%20Photos/IMG_0620.jpg)
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Use the fuel tubing on my N5c. Haven't sanded or sealed my E5 but everything is loose around any edge. Still will take one of these frozen days and sand up some spots.
Regards,
Brandon Bartolomucci
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Instead of tubing cut some sections of fuel tank isolator. It fits good and it's black. You can also shape it if you heat it a little.
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Bullet connectors motor to ESC (I use Scorpion 6.5mm. Note: The Scorpion HKIII 4025 1100KV motor has factory installed "banana" type connectors on the power wires, it is highly recommended that they be replaced with a connector with more contact surface area. ) http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXTJJ0&P=8 (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXTJJ0&P=8)
Rich
Rich-,
I just got my Scorp yesterday. I bought some of the Castle Connectors per your above recommendation, however, I am having second thoughts as to rather it will really be necessary to change the "banana" type connectors out. Can you please expound upon this subject? I'd like to get any input from others too as this is my 1st "real" RC heli build. Thanks!
-Seth
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Bullet connectors motor to ESC (I use Scorpion 6.5mm. Note: The Scorpion HKIII 4025 1100KV motor has factory installed "banana" type connectors on the power wires, it is highly recommended that they be replaced with a connector with more contact surface area. ) http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXTJJ0&P=8 (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXTJJ0&P=8)
Rich
Rich-,
I just got my Scorp yesterday. I bought some of the Castle Connectors per your above recommendation, however, I am having second thoughts as to rather it will really be necessary to change the "banana" type connectors out. Can you please expound upon this subject? I'd like to get any input from others too as this is my 1st "real" RC heli build. Thanks!
-Seth
I ended up using the connectors your recommended because the C/C ESC wires would not come close to fitting into the Scorpion supplied bullets.
Oh, does anybody have a picture of what the finished sanding/sealing should look like on the frame? My E5 kit is coming tomorrow, and I want to know exactly what I am going to be shooting for. Thanks!!