Synergy Tech Support
Synergy Nitro Helicopters => Synergy N5 / N5c => Topic started by: Chris McClard on January 09, 2013, 04:27:03 PM
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Ok this is going to be a no brainer question here. Once the bell crank is all put together the outside bells should rotate freely correct? One of mine has a notchy feeling when I tighten up the bolt. I'm assuming this is a bad bearing.
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Yes, with no links installed they should flop around pretty good. You might have a bad bearing or something aligned right. Maybe a shim in the wrong/missing place?
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The bell cranks are a bit tricky to get aligned just right but as Chris mentioned they should spin freely. I would try loosening the set screw a hair and moving the rod between the frames just a wee bit and see if that helps.
Regards,
Brandon Bartolomucci
Sent from my iPhone
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I would pull the bearings out and see how they feel, that way you know for sure if the issue is a bad bearing, or need to look elsewhere in the setup for the cause.
Bob
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I found some other bearing from my N9 that I replaced a while back and it was a lot better but could tell they was old so I ordered a set just to be on the safe side.
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Okay I completely took apart the bell crank assembly. I found two 15mm shims one between the frame bearing and the outside elevator bell crank and the other was between the outside bell crank and the bell rank. I didn't see anything in the manuel about shims or the kit coming with shims, should this not be there?
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Previous post from Matt. Hopes this helps.
The shims should never go anywhere but on the outside of the ccpm shaft. Placing shims in between bell cranks will cause binding as you are essentially taking up more space on the shaft. The shims should only be used on the outside in order to remove excessive in/out play in the bell crank.
Start with the elevator bell crank side and finish with the opposing side.
The balls in the elevator bell crank can interfere with the frames by a few thousandths of an inch. This was kept the way it is in order to maintain the perfect CCPM geometry for the outside bell cranks. To fit this correctly, simply file or grind off a few thousandths from the threaded portions of the elevator bell crank balls. This should only take a few minutes.
Thanks,
Matt
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This helps a bunch. Binding is exactly what caused the bearings to go bad. It makes sence now that this is brought to light. I was already thinking about grinding the ball ends to keep them off the frame. After reinstalling everything works as smooth as butter. Thanks guys for all your help.
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No problem, happy we could assist.
Rich
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This is one of those Tribal knowledge things when it comes to building the N5/N5c kit for the first time. It's gets guy more times than not. lol I remember the first Synergy N5 I ever built I found out the hard way myself.. Also pay close attention in the build tips and tricks about the shoulder bearings that go into the frames and how to secure them.. this is another Gotcha, also belt tightness (Soon to be a non issue with the release of the TT) also the tail output shaft phasing. Study these well, and you will never fly another Brand 600 class heli again ;). The N5c is without a doubt the best 600 class nitro on the Market!!! have fun
Kevin
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..... The N5c is without a doubt the best 600 class nitro on the Market!!! have fun
Kevin
What Kevin said! I smile every time I fly mine :-)
Cheers
Alan
Alan Butler
Team Synergy
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It's killing me to fly it, but want everything perfect before I do. The whole FBL is got me scared chitless, because I've never set one up or even mounted one. So don't know a whole lot about em. Like if I can run a 2s lipo strate into it without a reg. Or what sensor do you run for the Gov.
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Personally,
get the CGY750 with the new Firmware! the Governor is the best, and now with the new Software version it is Back on top of the Podium! I am running it on my latest N5c build...(yet to be Maiden-ed But I run it on my other Birds. You think your smiling now? Just wait till you pull on the sticks with that set-up ;)
BR,
Kevin
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Mine originally flew with a Helicommand and an external GOV. Went back to the CGY750 and with the new firmware it's awesome!
Just put a CGY750 in a MiniTitan. Flew that combo today and again the CGY750 rocks.
Cheers
Alan
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Thought you had to use Futaba radio only with those? I'm JR plus I've already got a new full size blue Vbar 5.2pro.
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i run nothing but JR, I use this,, SBE-1 CGY750 SBUS ADAPTER FOR NON-FUTABA RECEIVERS. go to rons heliproz south and look under gyros, you will find it. Or call and speak to Ron and tell him Kevin from Synergy sent you, He will take care of you with what you need!!! I have to run a ar7000 reciever with mine but for me to retool to futaba would cost me a small fortune.. for me the little bit of extra wiring is well worth the performance.. You wont regret it. ;)
Kevin
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Is the set up a lot easier then the Vbar? Also does the CGY750 have a Gov? Do I have to run a special servo for the tail or will my Torq BL9188 work, would I have to run a regulator? Just tring to think of all the questions before I make a move for one, cause I have another heli that I can put the Vbar in.
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The set up is different than Vbar. It dose not use a computer. You do not need a regulator and you can run any servo with the 750. Yes it has a gov and it works better than any other system out there today.
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You can actually using the SBE-1 adapter. Didn't realize you already have a VBar ready to go.
Alan