Synergy Tech Support
Synergy Nitro Helicopters => Synergy N7 => Topic started by: mdu6 on February 11, 2014, 05:45:50 PM
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Hi everyone,
As a contribution to the Synergy fans, I have put together a 'Build Book' covering the construction steps I have done while building my N7.
Some of the steps and process I have documented are my own choice, meaning this is how I do it, with the understanding that others may have better ideas and/or simply do not see any advantage of doing so & this is OK with me !
It is my understanding that my N7 was from the an early batch and the little snags I have come across are probably not present in later runs - but that being said it is a great build and I am anxious to have the machine flying in the coming weeks (weather).
The file that I have linked (too large to post in the Synergy forum) is in PDF format and you can redistribute without any problem (at least without changing the content/removing the credits !) but Matt has access to the 'source' file - and he can do whatever he wants with it ;D
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0yoB-j6s9duUHBZcEV5Skg4QXM/edit?usp=sharing
thanks and enjoy, Mario
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Very cool Mario! Thanks for sharing!
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Great work as usual Mario.
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Great job Mario! Very detailed build book!
Matt
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Very good work Mario. Thank you for sharing.
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thanks,
An updated version (V1.1) should be coming soon with the following changes:
- Changelog
- Parts-finder
- more details/small corrections in reference lengths given for the Boom and tail control rod
Mario
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Version 1.1
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0yoB-j6s9duTlAwUHdCQVl6MVk/edit?usp=sharing
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Great work! Thanks Mario.
Mark
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Very nice Mario!
Cheers
Alan
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Version 1.2 available:
-Corrected some typos - added that the Part finders includes clickable links to the parts store
- Added arrows/pointer to some details & lengths
- More details around hub/fan/clutch assembly & balancing
- More details around YS throttle linkage
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0yoB-j6s9duWXd2azVYWXdZVE0/edit?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0yoB-j6s9duWXd2azVYWXdZVE0/edit?usp=sharing)
Also - available (attached) is the standalone parts finder in PDF format.
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Nicely Done Mariom!! Enjoyed the read...
K
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Official weigh-in this morning ;D - all up ready to fly (less fuel) = 9.81lb
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Posted version 1.3 which adds some parts numbers & links to the parts store on the pictures.
This should be the 'last' version (!) - but I might add some maintenance notes once I get some mileage on the machine.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0yoB-j6s9duM202Z3NIRC1XajA/edit?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0yoB-j6s9duM202Z3NIRC1XajA/edit?usp=sharing)
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Great work Mario,
I invite you to club CRASH for maiden....let me know when you are ready.
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Hi Mario,
On page 12 and 13 of your build book you were indicating on the fan hub and the clutch hub. How did you secure the motor for these steps to maintain measurement integrity between adjustments?
R.O.G.
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If I understand correctly your question - especially this point
maintain measurement integrity between adjustments
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There is no need to maintain (positional) integrity between the 2 steps. They are done individually, with of course the last step (clutch) inheriting the hub 'true' position. You have to consider that there are only 2 ways to mount the clutch (180d) so the purpose is to find the best 'combined' geometry of the hub & clutch.
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If I understand correctly what you answered, all you do is clamp the motor so that it does not move, put the indicator on what ever you are measuring and rotate the crankshaft to make the measurement. As long as the motor and the indicator don't shift during rotation you are golden.
R.O.G.
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This is more or less the process:
1- Remove the engine back cover
2- Mount the engine in the vise (I use a homemade holder that simply clamps on one of the engine lug)
3- Mount the fan/hub on the engine and while pushing the crankshaft forward you put the engine nut on the crank and just tighten a little bit so there is no play possible on the crank
4- Start tightening the 2 clamping bolts. (2 bolts at the same time)
5- Check the runout - indicate the inside of the hub (page 13)
6- You want to slowly tighten the clamping bolts and check the hub to remain true (little runout as possible)
7- If the hub does not remain 'true' - you can
a) backoff the clamping and start back one bolt at a time
b) turn the hub on the crankshaft (using a crankshaft locking tool)
c) tap the hub using a soft hammer
d) etc etc
8- Repeat steps 4-7 until satisfied with the result - this can take 10 minutes or 2 hours
9- Once you have the result you want, snug the engine nut and put some loctite on the crankshaft/nut
10- Lay the engine so the crankshaft is upright (loctite will slip down)
11- Keep the engine like this for 2 hours while you take a beer to cool down ;D
12- Mount the clutch on the hub
13- Indicate the clutch (on the N7 - the only option is to use the one-way bearing) and write down the runout
14- Remount the clutch 180d - indicate the runout and decide which side is the best one
15- On some helicopters, I have use a file to create just enough clearance on the clutch bolt holes to 'move' the clutch around and zero in the clutch
16- Remove one clutch bolt at a time to apply loctite and tighten completely
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Mario, thank you very much for the step by step. When I am ready to do the procedure you will be at my elbow guiding me. :) :) :)
R.O.G.
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I'm OK with the elbow, might have issues with other parts ;D
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:) :)
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Sorry for the long delay ...
The runnout is relative to the crankshaft rotation (nothing linked to engine position per say) and we do it in two steps (fan first / then clutch) simply to have more ways to obtain a final 0 runnout clutch (or close to it).