MKS servos/ bolts dragging on case

[techmancchs1]

Hello,

I went a different direction with servos, and the bolt heads from the servo arm are dragging on the case if I tighten the servo horn bolt all the way down. Anyone else have this issue? What was your solution? I'm thinking about going without the carbon fiber horns and just use the horn that came with the servo.

Thanks,
Steve

[Mark Burberry]

Steve,

I use a dremel and take a little off the heads. This allows you to use a Futaba wheel and the supplied carbon horns in the kits. Works perfectly.

Cheers,
Mark

[techmancchs1]

What about putting the carbon fiber horn on top? Any problems with that?

Thanks again for your help

[Chris Sexton]

That would move the servo balls out of alignment and change the geometry of the swash links. It would probably fly that way but I dont know how the changes in geometry would effect the performance of the head.

sent from my Verizon Samsung Galaxy Note 2

[curmudgeon]

Instead of using the supplied cap head style screws, try using the shallower button head style screws.  The shallower head of the button head screws give enough clearance to prevent the screw heads from rubbing against the servo case. 

[JRICH]

I had the same issue with my JR8917 servos.  I went to my local hardware store and picked up flat head bolts with washers.  Full clearance with room to spare.  Its better to have the carbon fiber arm on the inside the wheel.  The geometry is perfect that way. 

[Bob Heybrock]

I'm using Torq BL9180s and I ran the screws in from the outside and put the nuts, which have a lower profile, in between the carbon arm and the servo body. Then I trimmed any excess threads down with a stone disc on my Dremel. Its tight clearance but works!

[Dan Minick]

I run MKS on several of my Synergy birds. Carbon arm on the inside of the servo wheel with no issue. Run the bolt in from the outside with the nut facing the servo. remove extra bolt material if necessary, just make sure you locktite

[Rob Cherry]

I've run into this with the RJX servos for years.  I insert one 3mm Synergy shim between the wheel and the top of the servo spline.  Although just 0.2mm thick, it is enough to create the clearance for the RJX case, though I'm not sure about the MKS.  I keep a healthy stock of 3mm shims.

[Jeff_Barrett]

I run MKS on several of my Synergy birds. Carbon arm on the inside of the servo wheel with no issue. Run the bolt in from the outside with the nut facing the servo. remove extra bolt material if necessary, just make sure you locktite

This is exactly what I do.

I put a shim / servo tab between the servo and the frame, there will be a little play so I push the servos as far out as possible from the frame.

Then I do my servo horns exactly as described above using the MKS wheel servo horn and cut it down.

Here's a photo ... no modification to the servos required, there's a gap between them, and the geometry is good.