Time to start cruising the forums for updates and tips again.... 
Here are a few to get you started. Sorry if this is old hat or too basic for you. Not sure of your prior build experience. In any event, have fun! It's an awesome machine, for sure. I've built six Synergy models so far, and they are all fantastic. A lot of these tips apply across the entire Synergy model lineup. Good luck!!
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Tail control rod/boom supports. I like to use JB Weld on the tail control rod and boom supports. In particular, I like the long-curing type, not JB Qwik. For that reason, this is the very first thing I do on my builds, even before unpacking the rest of the parts from the box. This allows me to set those items aside overnight and let them cure properly. Then they are ready to go when I get to the tail section of the build.
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Torque tube. While JB Welding the tail control rod and boom supports, I usually like to go ahead and secure the bearings and ends to the torque tube as well, just to get it out of the way. I use red loctite for this.
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Skid tube locks. These things work great but can be tedious to install. I started using long bamboo skewers (basically just a long toothpick) to hold them in place while installing. Works like a charm. Just lightly press the tube lock onto the end of the bamboo skewer, and then you can position the tube locks and hold them steady while you get the strut secured with one of the M3 button head bolts.
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Landing skid struts. Speaking of landing skids, I have always wished the rear struts were designed to angle the rear of the heli upward a couple degrees, just to give the tail a bit more clearance from the ground. Some people reverse their struts and install them backwards, and that seems to give a bit more height, but I don't personally care for the looks of that configuration. Instead, I have simply installed a spacer between the rear strut and the frame support. Thick blade washers work reasonably well for this.
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Cyclic servos. Depending on which ones you choose, these can sometimes be tricky fitting between the main bearing blocks without bending the servo wire a bit. For that reason, consider installing them at the same time you are securing the bearing blocks to the frame.
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Canopy mounts. Although very secure, I personally find the front keychain mounts very challenging to get on and off without using a few swear words. I ended up swapping mine out for the standard E7 front canpoy posts, and I left the keychain mounts in the rear. This works much better for me, but I suppose this comes down to personal preference.
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Canopy fit. There is a another thread on these forums that discuss this, but the bottom of the canopy tends to scrub the front of the bottom plate just a tad, making it difficult to fit the canopy into position. This is easily remedied by some modest dremeling of the bottom of the canopy. Just enough to prevent the canopy from scrubbing the bottom plate.
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Jesus bolts. There are a total of 3 bolts that run through the main shaft: one that secures the head, one that secures the autorotation gear hub and sleeve, and one that secures the Jesus bolt collar. This has been covered elsewhere on these forums, but do not overtighten any of these bolts. In fact, tighten just enough to take up the slack and that's it. Let the nylock nuts do their job.
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Tail pitch links. I make liberal use of the Boto-Sizer for these in order to get the tail to move effortlessly across the entire range of the output shaft.
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Tail output shaft. Speaking of effortlessly moving tail pitch sliders, I have found that Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish works wonders on the tail output shaft. Smooth as glass. This step isn't a must, but it has always worked well for my builds. I apply some of the polish to a microfiber cloth, and then, with the main blades and entire tail hub (and pitch slider) removed, I carefully spool up the motor to a low speed while applying the polish to the tail shaft. Careful that you don't get any polish in the bearing. Only takes a few seconds, and the result is a glassy smooth tail shaft.
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Set screws!! Dont forget to secure the set screws that retain the gear pins on the front trasmission module and tail box assembly. I use blue loctite for this.
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One-way bearing. Lubricate generously with a light viscosity oil, not grease (although there are differing opinions on this, I'm sticking with Matt's recommendation). While you're at it, double check your rotation direction. The auto hub assembly is symmetrical and can be installed in either orientation. Depending on the direction in which the OWB was pressed in at the factory, yours may or may not match the orientation shown in the manual.
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Bronze bushings. Secure these within the auto hub assembly with a modest application of red loctite.
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Delrin shims. I lightly sanded the upper shim in order to acheive a smoother, more freely rotating auto hub. You will need to test fit yours to see if it's needed. If so, just a very light sanding with fine grit sandpaper is all that should be necessary.
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Gear lube. I like Dry Fluids Extreme Gear Lube. Highly recommended.
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Pinion/main gear alignment. The new motor mount side plates makes this a snap, but still make sure the motor mount is sitting level in the frame before securing. Just press down on top of the motor bell while tightening the frame bolts.
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Pinion height. Make sure the pinion is lightly resting on top of the bearing in the motor shaft bearing support block.
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Pinion/main gear mesh. Everyone has their preferred way of doing it. Whichever way you do it, I recommend re-checking it after your first flight while everything is still warm. The gear lash seems to shrink a tiny bit when things heat up.
And by the way, I don't mean to imply that any of these are my ideas (except for maybe the bamboo skewer thing). Practically every one of these has been discussed elsewhere on these forums by others who are much more experienced than me. I have merely compiled a list of things I have learned from others (largely on this board) over the years.
Barry
