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Author Topic: My N7 & the YS120SRX  (Read 2388 times)

Offline rcnut

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My N7 & the YS120SRX
« on: July 13, 2015, 11:52:19 AM »
I met Mark at the field, yesterday, after work. He spent some time during the week going through his G820 checking everything and installing a GV-1.

Initially, Mark wanted to wait for me to get out of work and meet at the field, but I told him to get out there early and practice / warm up! He did and put a couple of hover flights on his G820. Mark let me check the controls out for forward flight on the next flight…shortly after arriving. I made a couple adjustments in his radio, decrease the gyro gain some (the longer boom and longer tail blades makes the tail more responsive), and add some expo to the rudder. The rudder was just a tad sensitive around center.

Once the settings were made, it was time to take to the skies! It was poetry, that big heli and the low frequency woofing from the blades was unbelievable! Not to worry Raja, you will get to see this “mammoth” Aug. 1st. Yea, Mark is bringing his G820 to IRCHA. It cruses through the air without a care, and once I was happy with it, it was time to see how it autos.

It has the tendency to bleed off most of its head speed close to the end, but everything on this heli is new and we are still working on the motor break-in and we are getting used to much bigger blades. The 4th flight was Mark’s turn to see how it flies to him. He liked it a lot, and took my recommendation to just cruse around the field, figure “8” style until the motor is broke in and I tweak the controls for a more aggressive feel…like his G4, but a little at a time. The YS120SRX motor, even though very rich, has more than enough power for this G820. I could have performed mild 3D and this motor wouldn’t have noticed.

And now for my turn! I finished the repairs to my N7. The fan hub had worked its way up (or off) the crankshaft forcing the clutch into the clutch bell and placing side force on the two support bearing holding the clutch stack causing the bearings to melt! Long story short, I replaced most everything in the stack. I too ordered a YS120SRX motor from RC Japan and Heliproz (Amain Hobby). The 120 motor from RC Japan showed up first, so it became the new motor for my N7…with a Hatori FAI style muffler.

So now it’s the moment of truth, first flight. I did my normal pre-flight check (I need to revise this as you will read in a bit), and checked the needle settings one last time. It took a bit to get the motor started with the right amount of throttle trim. And I was off!

The motor ran fine for the first flight. The tail had a twitch every now and then, mostly due to the rich needle settings…normal. Even during a couple of autos, the motor ran just fine. But things didn’t get crazy until the second flight! I filled the tank, and checked everything over, started the motor, put the heli into a hover, and I’m off and flying. I do many hovering piros, left, right, holding it in one place.

I start flying around, figure “8” style. Bill decided to leave and yelled out to us goodbye. I gently roll to inverted, motor is running fine, I have a nice forward speed going…Bill’s watching, Mark is by me, and BAM! 5 feet off the deck and the tail goes out. I try to gain control, but nothing is there! I tell myself…half flip, half flip, but the hands don’t know what to do! I’m dumb-founded, and I just watch my heli smash into the ground in the worst way possible…but in my mind.

I’ve seen this many times and all I can do is wait for it to happen. This sucks! A newly repainted canopy (it looks awesome by the way), a new motor & muffler (second flight), and not to mention a new heli. This flashed in my mind as I watched it drift away from me. Spinning slowly inverted. I said “NO!, Not this time” I waited for the tail to come around and attempt to flip it right side up…it didn’t want to. So I flipped into throttle hold and hovered it close to the ground until the blades almost stopped. My N7 landed on the head without breaking anything…well, bent one blade link, and stripped one aileron servo horn.

I couldn’t figure out why the tail let go at first. As we walked up to the crash site, I tried moving the rudder and nothing happened? Servo? Linkage? I took the canopy off, no cracks or dings by the way, and saw the link had popped off the rudder servo? We searched the area for parts and found nothing. We walked back to my truck for a thorough inspection. Come to find out, the aileron ball had popped out of the servo horn as well (the nut was missing!). The rudder link was broken, possibly due to the crash. And the cause of the tail loss was a pin in the front transmission crown gear had come out allowing the crown gear to spin freely on the jack-shaft.

My conclusion is; this heli was destined to crash in some fashion. The broken rudder link would have happened when I tried practicing piro-flips. The ball link would have happened at any time while in flight. The pin holding the crown gear to the jack-shaft was a God-sent. That pin caused the least amount of damage compared to what could have happened! Damage parts…lost a pin, bent a blade link, stripped a servo horn, lost a nut, and broke a plastic link… But still, I have no idea as to why the pin came out. That was the second time I landed my heli inverted without much damage!

Prior to the second flight on my N7, Bill has made great advances in his flying skills! He attempted rolls and back flips! Bill was having problems with the first couple of rolls…coming out cork-screwed and falling. I ran out to him and instructed him on what he needed to do. Rolling to inverted was ok, but he would add up elevator rolling to right side up. And he didn’t use any negative pitch while inverted. So I talked him through a couple of rolls and he was doing them a whole lot better.

Then it was time for the back-flip, the same problem applied here as well, no negative pitch. So I had him break the flip into two parts. Once inverted, he quickly learned to add enough negative to hold his heli up. Bill got so excited at learning this, he almost ran out of fuel performing roll after roll and flip after flip. That alone made our day, watching someone else finally getting how to do a maneuver(s).

So all-in-all, it was a great day! I think the YS120SRX is going to be a great fit for my N7!

"I love the smell of Nitro in the morning!"
I love the smell of Nitro in the morning!

Offline Mike Spano

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Re: My N7 & the YS120SRX
« Reply #1 on: July 13, 2015, 02:41:59 PM »
my N7 with the YS120SRX flys great too. 2 things you NEED to keep an eye one are - 1) chafing wires, the vibration will chafe wires. 2) bolts , all of them! that motor will loosen bolts. it will also break the heads off of bolts that are way too tight (vibration).

I have also had servo plugs come out of my vbar, even with hot glue on them. I now hot glue them and squeeze hot glue in between the individual plugs, and then put a strip of 3M tape holding the plugs to the vbar. I have not had an issue since.

are you using the fuel bladder? I am, I like it, but it cuts your flight time down a min or so, and it also bursts once a week or so. I am thinking of removing the bladder and just trying to run a clunk. they claim that 120 hates air bubbles though, so be careful.
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Offline rcnut

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Re: My N7 & the YS120SRX
« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2015, 02:28:24 PM »
Thanks Mike!

I use "Household Goop" on my wires running along the frame and for holding the connectors into the controller. It works better than the hot glue method. IMO... :)

All of the wires have the fuzzy side of Velcro on the corners, any place where chafing can occure.

I've never used a bladder tank...and don't know how. The ball link that came off, I put back on with red loctite. I might do the others with red loctite. All the balls on the swashplate , I used red loctite.

I have a header tank for the added security of air bubbles, and I try not to fly on that tank. I read a thread that said a header tank was recommended.

I'm kind wondering if the "SRX" version is better then the "SR."

But in the meantime...WOW, the power this motor has! It could easily handle my flying style almost as rich as it is!
I love the smell of Nitro in the morning!

Offline Mike Spano

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Re: My N7 & the YS120SRX
« Reply #3 on: July 14, 2015, 10:01:31 PM »
yes sir! I too use the Velcro method, it helps tremendously!

glad your loving it!

I have never flown the SR, but I will when I get back from vacation (headed to the mountains for a week with the wife and kids next week). I will let you know the difference in the 2 then! you may have to text me to check up, I may forget to post in here.....lol
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Offline rcnut

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Re: My N7 & the YS120SRX
« Reply #4 on: July 15, 2015, 11:54:51 AM »
Quote
yes sir! I too use the Velcro method, it helps tremendously!

You just gotta love it! ;D I've been doing this for years. I go through a lot of Velcro, but its worth it...versus the alturnitive.

I'll give you a buzz later...are you planning for IRCHA? Mark and I are going, we just need to solve the vehical issue...need more space to carry everything. We might get a small trailer, that or take two trucks! Naaa, trailer!
I love the smell of Nitro in the morning!

Offline rcnut

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Re: My N7 & the YS120SRX
« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2015, 03:05:20 PM »
I received all the parts that I ordered and some extra parts of course. I started in with removing the boom assembly, and front transmission. I found what happened and it was my fault! During the assembly of my new N7, I didn’t Loctite the grub screw holding the pin in place, so it slipped out…71 flights later.

The crown gear on the jack-shaft is held in place with a pin, much like the way Avant does to their helis, e.g. the tail output shaft and the autorotation hub on the mainshaft…Mostro & Aurora helis. The grub screw presses into the pin holding the pin in place, and the washer sits against the bottom of the jack-shaft, and the nut puts tension on the grub screw...locking it in place

Now this technique is fine and does work, however, it does have the tendency to “slip” due to not balanced exactly, and or bend the pin due to too much force tightening the grub screw / too soft of metal. Bending the pin isn’t good either, as it will fatigue the pin and cause it to break (found this out the hard way on my Aurora). The pin needs some type of “pocket” for the grub screw.

After a couple of issues with this type of securement, I have learned to make (grind gently) a semi curved flat spot on the pin so the grub screw has a place to “sit” into, holding the pin in place. This curved flat spot is not too deep, but just enough for the end of the grub screw. This is where my Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel comes in handy. I can carefully grind a small spot on the pin without damaging the whole pin.

Once this was fixed and reassembled, I started with replacing the feathering shaft and blade links. I replaced the servo wheel and found a nut for the servo ball. I used red Loctite this time! Let’s see it fall off again!!! I went through the Vortex programming, and dialed the aileron servo and the tail end points…since I replaced the link at the rudder servo. Now for some flying…
I love the smell of Nitro in the morning!