Trond's E7se bild

[troasb]

Hi

I have got an E5 and a N7 from before. The E5 was bought slighlty used this spring and I now have over 230 flights on it. The N7 with an O.S. 105 HZ-R I bought new and buildt by myself, but the electrnics was set up by a helper. Now I have got slightly under 100 flights on it, now waiting for a clutch assenbly after a hot start. I went the Synergy way because of the craftmanship of engineering and ease of maintainace on my E5 over the Align helicopters I had from before. Altough a hopeless parts situation in Europe, nobody keeps a full stock of parts in Europe, and nobody at all in Norway where I live. Still I want to be a member of the Synergy family.

Before I have always had an electronic helper, me only doing the mechanics. Now I am left by myself, and have to try to figure out this by myself and I am worried if I am going to manage this. I went flybarless this spring with my E5 with Ikon flybarless gyro, and also use the Ikon on my N7 and am going to use Ikon again on my E7se.I have been saving up for some time to use a Kontronik Kosmik esc and Kontronik Pyro 750-50L motor and the very costly Futba BLS 275SV's on my E7se. Now my build had gone quite a way, and I have soldered on  some SupraX connectors on the motor and esc. So far evrything has gone well toghther, but I have not been pleased by the fit of the ball links that have needed to be drilled up a bit, but this is minor troubles. The servos also needed 2 shims to fit as these servos are bigger than the standard Futaba heli servos.

I may need a lot of help here, but of course I am also on Helifreks.com to seek adwise.

Best regards
Trond
Norway

[troasb]

I see that the mounting holes of the bracket for the ESC is similar to my Kontronik Kosmik ESC mounting holes. But I think I still will fit it with welcro and strapping bands to protect (the very costly device!) it as much as possible from crash damage! I have had some receivers just added on by double sided tape and have bad experience from that, not that I would have fixed this esc with tape!

[troasb]

I am now onto mountin the cyclic servo linkages. These are 43mm long and per. insrtuctions the ball links are supposed to be 18,2mm apart. This requieres the ball links to be screwed in about as far as is possible, and it is not possible for me to to that without drilling out the ball links. So I have drilled them out to make this possible for me, but I see that it is about as long as they can go, and you cannot do this by only finger force, you need to use some extra tools to do this.

[curmudgeon]

Having the correct tools makes building a helicopter a more pleasurable experience.  A good set of ball joint adjusting tools makes screwing and unscrewing the ball links very easy.  Screwing and unscrewing the plastic links by hand is rough on the fingers.



The plastic links are manufactured with tight tolerances.  In order to make plastic links fit smoothly, you would need the Boto-Sizer or similar tool.


For easy insertion and removal of the plastic ball links without damaging the metal ball, the optimal tool is the FBL Ball Link Pliers.  You can always use other tools, Dremel a larger hole on a regular size ball link pliers, or just use your bear fingers like some people do (I would not recommend that).

As far as the 43mm cyclic servo metal links, you can always try using slightly shorter 38.1mm turnbuckles.

[troasb]

Thank you for your useful tips Curmudgeon. I have never seen or heard about these Ball Joint Adjustment tools before, but they look very smart and useful so I will be ordering a set immidiately.

The Boto-Sizer I have from before and also the FBL Ball Link Pliers as these are a must for Synergy ball links. When I got my first Synergy, the E5 this spring, I soon discovered that the Synergy ball links are bigger than normal and needs special tools. When I got my E5 obviously no sizer had been used and the links didn't move freely so I had to get the Boto-sizer immideatly. Also my old ball link pliers didn't fit, so instead of ruining a quality plier with a Dremel, I ordered the FBL pliers that is meant for Synergy.

I gues I could have got shorter turnbuckles, but this was not in my mind, and my ball links are fitting fine now so I don't think that will be neccesary.

Best regards
Trond
Norway

[troasb]

I see that I have spelled wrong in the headline of this topic. I have written "bild" and it should of course be "build". But I don't se how to correct this.

I am a Norwegian native, and I am afraid that my english is not always perfect, but I would like to correct my faults when I see them.