Can't get the bolt out of the head axle

[NKY Heli Guy]

Hey guys I'm working on my head assembly and in the process of taking everything apart to locktight etc. I'm having a hell of a time taking off just one of the socket head bolts from the head axle. I've heated it to he'll and back and this thing is not budging. Is there a tool or method I'm missing to get this thing off? I've put it into a vice with rubber grippers, putting the other bolt in and tightening it down then quickly snap my wrist to see I'd the other side will give and nothing... WTH?

[Chris Sexton]

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/2_375_1498_377/products_id/204876/n/Chimp-Systems-Grippy-Duo-8-10mm-Shafts

You need one of these

This will allow you to safely hold the feathering shaft while applying pressure to rotate.  Many different brands. This Chimp is nice because it has 8mm and 10mm.

[Darren Lee]

Personally, on a new build, if I break one side loose I just leave the other side alone.  The bolt obviously has been thread locked since you're having such a hard time getting it out.

The other solution is to get a 8mm "Grippy" tool which will hold the shaft without damaging it.

[Brandon Bartolomucci]

The Chimp Systems Grippy tool is definitely a must have. Also go for the one that Chris linked as it is one of the originals out there.


Regards,
Brandon Bartolomucci
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[NKY Heli Guy]

Lol the video is awesome! Going to buy one now. Thanks

Do you think it would be ok to assemble exactly the way I took out? If one side is tight it should be good no?


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[NKY Heli Guy]

Thanks guys I picked up the nano o e as well. Damn this hobby is expensive... $50 here $50 there, oh well if I can someday fly like Matt it will be worth it

Would you all recommend red locktight? Now that I'll have tool to get it off might be nice to have extra security?




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[Chris Sexton]

I put red loctite on anything that can cause me to crash. Swash balls, grub screws, set screws, spindle bolts, pitch control arms on the grips, etc. It might suck to take it apart, but one of my heads has never blown apart in the air

[Greg Jackson]

With the quality Synergy has, would it be safe to say that if a bolt is insanely tight that it has sufficient locktite?  Just saying; they're pros and may do a better job of locktiting things like that then I could.  Obviously if its loose then add some, but if it is that tight, how necessary is it really to take it apart and add more to it?  Just a philisophoical type question. 
Other helis I have built though, I take everything apart.  But those brands never really "aligned" well so I had to. The brand seems to "align" much better than the other company so would you trust the work done at manufacturing?

[NKY Heli Guy]

I am finding this to be true, parts are tight and all back together. One thing I did find interesting in the build was when I took apart the swash follower arm assembly I ended up with 6- 106-301 M3 Shims, the manual only accounts for 4. Is this meant to be? If not I can't figure out where the other two go.

[Brandon Bartolomucci]

Even if it's tight you should take it apart and do it yourself. Honestly even if you feel like you can't get it off with a wrench that doesn't mean that continued vibration couldn't pop it loose and remember the odds are against you that there is some amount of machine oil in there regardless that you'll want to clean off.


Regards,
Brandon Bartolomucci
Sent from my iPhone

[curmudgeon]

Follow up question.  Is it necessary to use RED Loctite as the manual states?  I have put together other electric helicopters, even a 700 size, and have never used Red Loctite.  I am very concerned about the permanent nature of Red Loctite which would make future removal of screws much more challenging than Blue Loctite.  I would like to learn the thoughts on use of Red Loctite from the more experienced pilots.

[Jean-Luc Bolduc]

Red loctite on the TT bearings, blue (242 or 243) on all else.  I personally use JB Weld on the TT bearings.

[curmudgeon]

Actually, I was thinking of using bearing retainer (green) Loctite on the TT bearings.  I am just wondering about Red Loctite in places like the TT ends (page 32), tail assembly (page 40) and servo horns (page 50).  Once you use the Red Loctite, you are pretty committed to never taking those apart.  I am not as worried with using Red Loctite in places like the auto hub bronze bushings (page 25), as I do not ever see me taking the auto hub apart.

[RichL]

Follow up question.  Is it necessary to use RED Loctite as the manual states?  I have put together other electric helicopters, even a 700 size, and have never used Red Loctite.  I am very concerned about the permanent nature of Red Loctite which would make future removal of screws much more challenging than Blue Loctite.  I would like to learn the thoughts on use of Red Loctite from the more experienced pilots.

I use red Locktite on anything that if it were to come loose would cause injury to myself or others.  Blade grip retaining bolts (head and tail), balls on the head, swash and tail.  I also regularly replace nylock nuts if they have been removed several times.  Yes, removing red Locktite requires more effort but, that is the idea.  Safety should always be first IMHO.  Get yourself a Green Grippy Duo (for 8mm & 10mm shafts)  it makes life much easier for builds, repairs and maintenance that why it's listed in the "tools and supplies for E5 build thread".   

Rich

[curmudgeon]

There are a number of places in the helicopter where a loose part could compromise safety.  However, the manual calls for use of regular blue Loctite in these key important screws.  These include the single pinion set crew (page 29), tail hub screws (page 37), single set screw that holds the tail hub to tail shaft (page 41), and feathering shaft screws (page 45).  What is it about the other screws that the manual calls for red Loctite, and not the screws mentioned above?  The pinion set screw is directly connected to the power source of vibrations.  If the single M4x4 comes loose, you lose all tail authority.  If the feathering shaft screws come loose, you have 2 CF projectiles.  Why not use red Loctite in these places?