Can't get the bolt out of the head axle

[Jean-Luc Bolduc]

Forgot the red on TT ends. Yes good point.


 Blue loctite and proper torquing is all you need in other locations, including pinion setscrews and such. Although I do use Loctite 680 on motor support bearing.

These are personal preferences, of course.

[bmclaurin]

The Grippy wrenches are great, but in a pinch I've used the chuck of my drill on the end of the spindle shaft. No need to wrench it down too tight. It will hold it just right to allow you to loosen the bolt on the other end with your hex driver.

[GimpyGolden]

Myself and a buddy both had one super tight spindle bolt.
Mine seemed to have rubber cement in place of thread lock, smelt and looked like it.

You can clamp the spindle in vise grips or a vise as long as you do it in the center of it's length.
If you do mess it up some it's not dire and you can clean it up with a file/sand paper.

After getting my stubborn bolt out I see there were a lot of metal shavings in the spindle from the thread cutting I assume. I guess it wasn't cleaned afterwards and the bolt threaded in. Vlad's was the same.
If you did neglect cleaning this bolt hole well the bolt tightens up before it bottoms out.

[Greg Jackson]

I was going to clean all the screws, just wanted to see who had faith "lol" in the pre-manufactured stuff.  I know they out things together great, but I always think what if. 

In you all's opinion; which screw should receive RED locktite instead of blue?

[NKY Heli Guy]

How hard is it to remove things that have been red locktightned I thought all you had to do was heat it up and it will loosen. Like with a soldering iron etc

[Greg Jackson]

Not sure but I just ordered a grippy. I BETTER get good use out of it.

[Jean-Luc Bolduc]

I am finding this to be true, parts are tight and all back together. One thing I did find interesting in the build was when I took apart the swash follower arm assembly I ended up with 6- 106-301 M3 Shims, the manual only accounts for 4. Is this meant to be? If not I can't figure out where the other two go.

I put 2 each on follower arm side that clamps on headlock, it allows the arm to swing a bit more out, avoiding potential rubbing on block and it aligns better the links on the swash balls.

[NKY Heli Guy]

I am finding this to be true, parts are tight and all back together. One thing I did find interesting in the build was when I took apart the swash follower arm assembly I ended up with 6- 106-301 M3 Shims, the manual only accounts for 4. Is this meant to be? If not I can't figure out where the other two go.

I put 2 each on follower arm side that clamps on headlock, it allows the arm to swing a bit more out, avoiding potential rubbing on block and it aligns better the links on the swash balls.

Thanks I was wondering where to put the other two, Ill do the same

[RichL]

Not sure but I just ordered a grippy. I BETTER get good use out of it.

The first time you bend a main shaft ,head axle shaft or have to get those ends off the torque tube you will be happy that you have a grippy.

Rich

[Ktsn]

Hello all

Same problem, the M5 bolts on my head axle are both unscrewable. I tried hard but nothing is coming. I will let it as it is but I fear the first crash that will force me to unscrew it !

 

[NKY Heli Guy]

Got my grippies today, got the nano one as well. Helidirect has them..  ordered them on Friday got them today, I love that store. Sorry to hear you are having the same problem, unfortunately the grippy seems like its the only tool out there that will safely take off the bolts. When I took mine off there was a heavy material on the threads. Try heating the hell out of the bolts with a soldering iron to loosen up the goo.


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[Greg Jackson]

I just went through cleaning all of the bolts on the head and swash then reapplying loctite.  I used red on all of the balls and other parts, but didn't on the set screw on the head, used blue because I thought I might have to undo that at some point.  I don't see myself ever removing the balls for a long time. 
I cannot remove the blade grips.  I have been torquing for almost 5 minutes and nothing.  Turned the other way in case I did move it some, nothing.  I am not going to risk damaging something like my new tools or stripping the screw inside so I will let it be.  I think they used red loctite on that because other places they used blue loctite did not require as much effort to come free.  I will keep an eye on it for each flight and probably check it each time to see if it has loosened.  On to the tail rotor and tail box as far as cleaning and loctite.  Probably won't get to the frame today which is unfortunate.   Who knows, if my wife would get busy on something I might, but soon it will be dinner time and probably a movie or something...and take down Christmas stuff. 

[Kevin Dalrymple]

I would watch where and how much you use the red loctite. I use blue on my link balls. You never know when you might have a tip over and have to change one. With red you might break the threads off I would only use red with threads that are bigger than 3mm and in a situation that the bolt keeps coming loose.

If it is a button head screw use a small amount of blue. The reason is the button heads are easily striped while trying to remove them.

A little practice with loctite will payoff. You can go to the Loctite web site and see how to use these tools.

[Greg Jackson]

Good points. I used red in some of the places that Chris recommended, but not all over the helicopter.  For the most part I used blue, but on the balls and where it says to use red in the manual that is what I used.

[Chris Sexton]

Yeah Red can make life interesting.  I personally use red in more places than most, but only because I have had some of these things fail and cause crashes. 

Blue should be good enough if you get all of the debris and machine oil off the bolts first.