Wiring diagram/pictures

[NKY Heli Guy]

If you decide to re-size your servo leads, doing so voids your warranty.


Rich

Damn thanks Rich I didn't even think of that. I'll try what Brandon suggested if I get wags or weird vibrations I'll do it then. Just tight back there with all the wires coming in. I'll get it thanks guys!


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[RichL]

I would have liked to cut mine down as well.  I have all of the tools and connectors because I make my own servo extensions.  I went to Horizon's web page and read the warranty statement.  The statement said any modifications to the servo voids the warranty.  My JR servos have a 3 year warranty so the idea of shorter servo leads went out the window.

Rich   

[RichL]

Well you can use needle nose but its harder and more tedious.  If you plan on doing this with every Heli I would get a pair of the crimpers. Cost $40 for a good set. I have seen some for around $19. I have both. The $40 set is worth it.
I have been in the r/c hobby for about 40 years and used to make all of my own servo extensions when I flew planks so this is not new for me. 

Cheers
Alan

Alan, where did you find the "good" crimpers?  I have the $20 pair and hate them.

Rich

[Greg Jackson]

Good, just wanted to make sure.  The one piece of tape seemed to work perfectly.  I will install a new piece of tape since I had to remove it to get to the rear servo.

[flyalan]

I got my good pair from Hansen Hobbbies

http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/connectors/tools/

They work great.  Their wire stripper is good also.  They carry all sorts of connectors and the prices are very good.
The last order was received in about 5 days after I ordered.

Cheers
Alan

[RichL]

Alan, thanks for the link brother.

Rich

[flyalan]

No problem Rich. Just went on their website and ordered more female pins myself.

Alan

[ChrisRain]

Not completely done with the build yet, still have to install motor/esc and route the Satellite wire...but for now here are some pictures of the heli as it sits now.








Wiring was done by my friend Alan Moulton from Superstition Hobbies.

[flyalan]

Looking good!

Cheers
Alan


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[RichL]

Very nice Chris!



Rich

[copenhagen]

RichL,

I really like your pictures at the beginning of this thread, they are quite informative.  Thanks for posting.

I have two questions:

1.)  I have EC5's instead of PRC6's.  I am planning to do a castle BEC Pro like yours and I have the newer version of the same ESC that you have.  The wires on my ESC barely fit into my EC5's when I soldered them.  Should I peel back some insulation on the ESC wires and directly solder the BEC wires to them that way, or should I heat and remove the ESC wires from my EC5's, and cut out enough wire in order to fit the ESC and the BEC wires into the same cup?  I don't like the idea of cutting out wire as it strikes me that it will limit the current flow, but I do like the idea of putting both wires inside of the EC5 cup.  I want to stay with the EC5 connectors for larger parts compatibility, but I'm not sure what the smartest way to go about this would be.

2.)  My castle manual says not to put anything around the ESC, and I noticed that you have velcro around yours for added insurance.  I have my ESC attached with 3M 4011 mounting tape (I have been using this stuff to hold the BeastX down on my 450X).  Have you ever experienced any adverse heat issues with your velcro?

[flyalan]

I am sure Rich will chime in here. But I will also comment.
What I did with EC5's was to bare back about 1/4" of insulation just above the bullet connector. Tin the leads and wrap the BEC wires around the ESC ones. Apply solder then slide over a piece of heat shrink. Do this with the bullets out of the EC5 casing.

I no longer need to do this this since going to PRC6's :-)

As far as Velcro over the ESC. I have done that with no ill effects but I now use zip ties instead. Those will not obstruct any cooling air flow.

Cheers
Alan


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[copenhagen]

Thanks Alan.  I attached my BEC the way you described above.  Now when I put heat to my heat shrink, one of my tubes leaves about one square millimeter of wire showing above the connector.  I believe this is because it shrank around the bulbous-nous where the splice was.  Should I remove this wire and re-heat-shrink, or will it be fine?  It is no where near being able to touch the other wire.

I had to reverse my ESC from RichL's orientation as my ESC wires were not long enough to make it to the FBL unit.  I think maybe Castle has shortened them?  At any rate, I debated losing the ferrite ring to lengthen them, read about the function of the ring, and decided to reverse directions instead.

[flyalan]

Post a pic of the finished connector.  Even though the other wire is not exposed it could still short to the frame and cause problems.  Remember.  Carbon fiber is conductive
You can always lengthen the ESC wires if needed.  Good decision to leave the ferrite ring in place!


Cheers
Alan

[copenhagen]

See that little spot on the positive wire?  The reason I haven't removed it and re-done the heat shrink yet is because I've already removed those plugs from that connector one time, and I wanted to make sure it needed to be re-done before I added wear and tear to the EC5: