Synergy E7SE and MKS HBL950 HV servos; any compatibility issues?

[curmudgeon]

I am considering moving all my electronics from a MA Whiplash to a Synergy E7SE.

I understand that the MKS HBL950 HV servos need some shimming when used on the Synergy E5.  How about using these servos on the Synergy E7SE?  Do they also require shimming?

[Mark Burberry]

I use the Outrage Torq BL 9180 HV cyclic servos on the E7se which are the same dimension as the MKS you are using. I needed to shim the aileron and pitch.

Just used extra servo hold downs behind those two servos for shimming. Synergy part number 106-115

Cheers,
Mark

[curmudgeon]

I needed to shim the aileron and pitch.

OK.  So you are shimming the left and right cyclic servos.  Why are you needing to shim the servos?  Would the servos butts touch each other otherwise, or does shimming just provide optimal geometry with the swash outer ring balls?

[Mark Burberry]

I needed to shim the aileron and pitch.

OK.  So you are shimming the left and right cyclic servos.  Why are you needing to shim the servos?  Would the servos butts touch each other otherwise, or does shimming just provide optimal geometry with the swash outer ring balls?

Yes, shimmed the front left and right (Ail, Pit). Elevator and Tail requires no shimming.
The front two are shimmed purely due to the physical depth of the servo housing and touching. Unfortunately servo specifications are not standard across manufacturer and you find that the MKS, Outrage have slightly more depth than for example the Futaba's.
Shimming with some extra servo hold downs as mentioned works perfectly.

I use Vbar and the geometry is perfect.

I found this pic I had taken during my build which shows the shimming and spacing:


Cheers,
Mark

[curmudgeon]

Thanks.  That picture brings it all together.

Is only one 106-115 shim thick enough?  I can't tell from the picture how much clearance you have between the two servos' butts.

[Mark Burberry]

No problem.

Yes, only one behind is needed. It is difficult to see in the pic, but they are not touching. There is a gap between them.

[curmudgeon]

Thanks so much.

[Chris Sexton]

I guess I was thinking that shims wouldn't be needed because the e7 frame is wider. But the servos would need to be the same distance from each other since the e5 shares a swash with the e7.

Glad you got the information you needed. Sorry if I clouded the water.

sent from my Verizon Samsung Galaxy Note 2

[curmudgeon]

Not a problem, Chris.  There are so many variables, it is hard to keep them straight.   

Thanks for all your help. 

[Greg Jackson]

I guess I was thinking that shims wouldn't be needed because the e7 frame is wider. But the servos would need to be the same distance from each other since the e5 shares a swash with the e7.

Glad you got the information you needed. Sorry if I clouded the water.

sent from my Verizon Samsung Galaxy Note 2

Did you have to shim anything with the RJX servos?

[Chris Sexton]

I guess I was thinking that shims wouldn't be needed because the e7 frame is wider. But the servos would need to be the same distance from each other since the e5 shares a swash with the e7.

Glad you got the information you needed. Sorry if I clouded the water.

sent from my Verizon Samsung Galaxy Note 2

Did you have to shim anything with the RJX servos?

Nope

sent from my Verizon Samsung Galaxy Note 2

[Tom W.]

Hi

I have a problem with step Servo Horn Assembly. With the MKS servo I have no servo arm wheel to use, so I use the normal servo arm. My problem is that the screw thread is way to short. So the screw  thread covers only about the half of the nut. Also when I would use the CF servo arm, the screw thread covers not all of the nut.

Has anyone the same problem?

thx
Thomas

(I hope my english is not to bad to understand)

[flyalan]

Hi

I have a problem with step Servo Horn Assembly. With the MKS servo I have no servo arm wheel to use, so I use the normal servo arm. My problem is that the screw thread is way to short. So the screw  thread covers only about the half of the nut. Also when I would use the CF servo arm, the screw thread covers not all of the nut.

Has anyone the same problem?

thx
Thomas

(I hope my english is not to bad to understand)

Tom,
The Futaba Servo Wheels do fit the MKS servos just fine.  I would use the Futaba wheels with the carbon arms. Much better setup


Cheers
Alan

[Mark Burberry]

Tom,

Agree with Alan... The Futaba servo wheels are the best to go with as they were designed for the carbon horns provided in the kits. MKS uses a Futaba spline.

Additionally, you will find that you need to file a little off the top of the screw heads to fit. MKS / Outrage has a slightly raised lip on the casing around the servo spline. So to prevent any scratching or resistance, I simply dremeled a little off the top of the heads. Just a thin layer.

Hope this helps.

Mark

[curmudgeon]

Additionally, you will find that you need to file a little off the top of the screw heads to fit. MKS / Outrage has a slightly raised lip on the casing around the servo spline. So to prevent any scratching or resistance, I simply dremeled a little off the top of the heads.

I tried filing of the heads of the cap screws.  It works.  However, I prefer to just use shallower heads of M2x8 button head screws.  Also, the extra 2mm length allow me to use lock nuts, so no Loctite is necessary.