Synergy N5C Flybarless Belt Drive Kit for a first nitro?

[KevinM]

The 12v hobbico wont turn over a 105 once the ring is seated. I went from 3s to 5s and eventually went with the align starter.  The dynatron is where its at!

[Mark Burberry]

Yep... Went through two Hobbico's in the past before Dynatron. Never looked back on that decision!

Cheers,
Mark

[Rodney Kirstine]

Okay, the owb thing makes sense now, thanks!  Sounds like I'm going to be buying a new starter soon, too.  I'm pretty sure mine is a hobbico.

[Kevin Feil]

Sullivan all day long in my book!!! Including the Wand, strong enough to crank a Tractor...


K

[rimaarts]

yeah but for a guy not sure about nitro do dish out for most expensive starter, and after that the same amount for wand.... possibly ill get a cheapish wand, and if im decide to keep on nitro-ing, swap it for original...

anything wrong with using hitec 7235 for throttle servo?

[Jon Mills]

yeah but for a guy not sure about nitro do dish out for most expensive starter, and after that the same amount for wand.... possibly ill get a cheapish wand, and if im decide to keep on nitro-ing, swap it for original...

anything wrong with using hitec 7235 for throttle servo?

Absolutely nothing wrong with using a cordless drill all you need is the hex bit and boom.  Assuming you have a cordless drill.

[Rodney Kirstine]

I'm definitely into nitro for the long run but I think I'll just use the starter I have until it goes up in smoke or won't crank my 105.  After that, however, I'm going to take your guys' advice and go with the Sullivan.

[rimaarts]

sooo... received kit! WOOOOW!!! it just dwarfs my protos 500!!! is it actually normal 600 heli size? or synergy n5c is bigger than the rest? tailboom is 1.5 times longer than protos! i  already dryfitted the frame  so i can put on canopy and landing gear...so far only 2 things were less than i expected... 1. rods are quite poorly cut... (on 3 it was near impossible to thread ball links...(yeah i know about fbl rotors upgrade but still...) and seems that i also will have to correct canopy grommet holes... and either mispacking or im just not used to synergy packing style.. why would half of the frame spacers be with landing gear, half in a head package and 3 posts in another bag! oh and i found that i need to get another 5mm hex driver...

apart from that, i half a day couldnt stop playing with the kit!

one question... how free should owb be on main gear? lets say its dry fitted on a main shaft and i spin it while holding shaft... how much should it move?

[bmclaurin]

Late to the party, but another vote for the Sullivan starter. The Sullivan wand is nice but way overpriced. My old school Hirobo wand (w/o OWB) works just as well at a fraction of the price (I own both, actually).

If you happen to use Makita power tools, do yourself a favor and pickup the adapter. Great solution, very convenient and tidy. But a bit pricey compared to just strapping a pack to the starter.



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[Rodney Kirstine]

Now the fun part begins, for sure! 

Canopy holes are almost always drilled small and need to be reamed to the proper size.  Try not to go too far because the grommets won't stay attached.  I usually use a little bead of shoe goo to hold them on the canopy, too.

one question... how free should owb be on main gear? lets say its dry fitted on a main shaft and i spin it while holding shaft... how much should it move?

It won't spin a whole bunch without any weight attached to it.

oh and i found that i need to get another 5mm hex driver...

I'm guessing you mean 4mm if you're talking about needing a second driver for the main blade grip attachment to the head axle?

[rimaarts]

Now the fun part begins, for sure! 

Canopy holes are almost always drilled small and need to be reamed to the proper size.  Try not to go too far because the grommets won't stay attached.  I usually use a little bead of shoe goo to hold them on the canopy, too.

one question... how free should owb be on main gear? lets say its dry fitted on a main shaft and i spin it while holding shaft... how much should it move?

It won't spin a whole bunch without any weight attached to it.

oh and i found that i need to get another 5mm hex driver...

I'm guessing you mean 4mm if you're talking about needing a second driver for the main blade grip attachment to the head axle?

fun part will begin most likely at christmas or latest at february... (when i will finish gathering all the bits and pieces..

thanks! its just my first so BIG heli and first with owb on main gear!

[rimaarts]

so... tried disasembling head... stripped 2x cheap chineese hex drivers...  i have nice bondhus driver set, but unfortunately seems that i need to order another similar set... (and yeah, i did try applying heat to feathering shaft screw...)

dissasembled and relubed tail grips... i was afraid i would have to mess around with bearings, but they came out easy, but were not lubed, so that means i really need to dissasemble head...

ordered rjx tail servo, and since my triflow grease is finished, also a boto lube...

[Rodney Kirstine]

If you want some quality hex drivers that you can really apply some torque with, get a set of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TITAN-EXTRA-LONG-ARM-METRIC-HEX-KEY-SET-12714-/281152551753?pt=US_Hand_Tools&hash=item4175ff7b49

These are a much better driver than Bondhus.  Our field service guys used to go through a set of Bondhus drivers every couple of months.  They've been using these Titan's for just over a year now and they're still in good shape.

[rimaarts]

hmm.. thanks! ill order a set...

[rimaarts]

hmm.. thanks! ill order a set...

so... im waiting for servos (rjx and hitec 7235 for throttle), big things left to buy is os55, hatori sab55 pipe, pushglow, flybarless and starter...

im starting to think about bits and pieces (most annoying part for a first nitro build)

how many filters do i need? one for carb-fuel tank, one for fuel bottle? im thinking lynx moas fuel magnet? (i read its too light and stays on top of fuel... anything to worry about? )
how about sullivan crap trap for fuel filter?
how about one way fuel valve? which is good one?

fuel line.... usual silicone line? hayes black neoprene line?

im not really keen on ordering overseas and my 2 shops (fast lad and modelhelicopters) doesnt have any nice stuff for nitros... (or i just dont know how to look for it or what is nice lol... ?)