Lowering head block

[Rob_Wegryn]

Just curious if some could give me a measurement on their pitch links with the head in the lowest hole ?

[Flat Eric]

Hi, I think I used 52mm turnbuckles on mine, there is 38mm of rod showing between the ball links, this is the n5c head on the top hole.

Hope this helps you 

[rimaarts]

lowest hole?? did you look in manual? (P50)

but if you meant top hole of head block...

ill be on this step practically in about a month, so far just theoretical...

when using top head hole, cant we just subtract head height change from manual pich link length??

manual suggests 56mm between ballinks, top and bottom is around 17mm apart, so my guess would be 39mm of rod between ballinks...

[flyalan]

If you are going to lower the head to the top hole on the head block I suggest you lower the swash some.  My rods are at 19mm between the ball link instead of 24mm.  I am not sure what the pitch link measurement is.  I am now running the new lowered head conversion (E5 headlock).  Just be sure your swash does't hit the frame at extreme throws. If you lower the swash and also shorten the stock pitch links you can use all of the stock N5C link rods (or FBL links) if I remember correctly.

At some point you might want to just go ahead and do the head conversion.  This eliminates the separate follower block.

Cheers
alan

[Rctintin]

I modded the std FBL head on my N5c by lowering the swash as Alan suggested, and installed the Jesus bolt through the top hole. I am fortunate enough to own my own lathe, so I machined up shouldered inserts that went where the original clamp bolt heads sit. The follower arms then bolt up against these with longer M3 bolts. This has proved to be perfect, and the only cost was swash to pitch arm turnbuckles.

[Bill Mullin]

I lowered mine and mounted the follower arms directly to the head block.
I did not lower the swash, and so far have seen no need to do so.
Just curious, but why is this suggested.
My pitch links are 38mm and the servo links are 24mm (all measured between the links).

[flyalan]

Bill,
Auddis made no mention of attaching the follower arms to the head block. So I assumed he was just going to lower the head.  Which can be done...  If you do this you must also lower the follower block which in turn puts it pretty close to the top of the swash.  Lowering the swash is what I would recommend in this scenario. Also this is what I did when I lowered the head.

Cheers
Alan

[Bill Mullin]

Bill,
Auddis made no mention of attaching the follower arms to the head block. So I assumed he was just going to lower the head.  Which can be done...  If you do this you must also lower the follower block which in turn puts it pretty close to the top of the swash.  Lowering the swash is what I would recommend in this scenario. Also this is what I did when I lowered the head.

Cheers
Alan

Oh ok. I never even considered that you could lower the head without removing the block.
The reason I asked is because after doing the mod, at my lowest headspeed (1750),
I was getting a slight wobble. I tried tuning it out with the CGY, but couldnt.
Finally I tried slightly loosening the blade grips, and the wobble was gone. Thought
maybe not lowering the swash may have had something to  do with it.

Btw, I never got the chance to thank you for taking the time at IRCHA to help me
figure out a new canopy mount. I ended up using a Trex magnet for the front,
and a Booya QR for the rear. Works great.
Thanks again.

[flyalan]

Bill
Try using thinner shims between the blade grips and head. There are some 0.5mm ones available. Check and see what is installed. They are probably 0.75mm. I will get that part number for you.

Always glad to help :-)

Cheers
Alan

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk...

[Rctintin]

My N5c also gets a wobble at lower HS. What Dampners are you all using? The Std ones?