Clay's E7SE Build

[cml001]

Ok, now that I have the wheel & CF arm mated and on the servo.. I've got another issue... The ball that mounts to the CF horn is not long enough to pass thru the CF horn & thread the nut.... It starts the looses bite as it only gets a 1/4 turn.... the 3mm threads of the ball are just too short... This can't be right? May end up ordering the balls off the N5C with the 2mm threads & use a standard horn... Any suggestions guys? I'm all ears & eager to get this baby in the air! Thanks.

[Ding0]

How about using a regular servo arm... what are the forces acting on the arm to begin with? enough to bend or break it?

[curmudgeon]

Yes.  I don't know why the threaded part of the ball studs is so short.  I used red Loctite.  Several hundreds of flights later, and no issues.  Bearing retainer green 648 should work well too.  I would not feel comfortable using blue Loctite for this application.

[cml001]

I use red on all my ball links... Usually I use a metal horn... I know the CF are designed as a sacrificial part to save servo gears as well to set correct geometry.. I like them & want to use them... But the I'm not getting a "bite" on these threads well enough for me to feel comfortable with it. It's almost as tho it strips or is strip'd given I only get a portion of a turn into the nut. I have always felt that my builds are solid... I enjoy the modeling side of each build as much as fly'n the completed heli.. This does not feel solid. May order more balls & nuts just to see if I get better results... I don't know... Thanks for the help bruh!

[Danny Dugger]

The threaded section of the pivot ball measures 0.143" or about 3.63mm from flat to tip. If you're only getting 1/4 thread something is wrong, you should be able to get a few threads in there. Red loctite is definitely a must. The carbon part will live through a crash, the spline of the plastic Futaba wheel will strip and save your gears Make sure the pivot ball is going all the way through and sitting flat on the horn. The horn should be 2mm thick.

[cml001]

Thanks Danny, that's the way I understood it work yes.. Not having any luck tho... I've placed an order for more ball studs & nuts... When I get home I'll pull out the calipers and get the measurements to confirm. Thanks again.

[cml001]

The ball stud was striped... The threads in the others do not reach all the way thru the nut.. Curm's pic is about the same as mine... All fixed up tho... This build has brought another first for me tho... I locked a bearing on the torque tube w green loctite.. Lol.. Never had that happen before.. Lol.. New bearing will be here tomorrow so no biggie.. What do u guys use to secure the bearings? Any tricks that u guys use to keep glue or compound outta the bearings?

[Danny Dugger]

Loctite 638 retaining compound. I apply a very small amount to the shaft where I want to stick the bearing using a piece of solder. I slowly work the bearing over the compound (not letting it pile up in front of the bearing high enough to reach the seal). Wobble the bearing around a little to let the compound spread between the mating surfaces and I like to let it cure overnight before installing into the boom.

[Danny Dugger]

Loctite 638 retaining compound. I apply a very small amount to the shaft in the location the bearing is to be set using a piece of solder. I slowly work the bearing over the compound (not letting the compound pile up in front of the bearing high enough to reach the seal). Wobble the bearing around a little to let the compound spread between the mating surfaces and soak up any excess with a q-tip. I like to let it cure overnight before installing into the boom.

[Mike Spano]

I actually use very thin CA myself. I put a paper thin coating around the TT in the location I want the bearing, then slide the bearing into it, and past the point I want it, then back to the point I want it, and that keeps it from coming over into the bearing itself. immediately take the TT and roll it on the table (the bearing is touching the table) back and forth to ensure that the bearing is seated properly. you only have one shot at getting it perfect, or its a PITA to get back off, so do it quick.

[cml001]

Yeah that's how I do it using green 290.. Never had a problem before... Just goof'd it this time I guess. UPS delivery a shiny new... extremely bent torque tube today! Freak'n awesome!

[Kevin Dalrymple]

Looks like copper in the pic. That would make it worth more. Lol

Just a small drop of ca for nether slide the bearing on. You only need to hold the bearing in place as you slide the TT into the boom.  And if you bend it in a crash you can pull the bearings right off the torque tube by hand.

[Danny Dugger]

Man, that sucks.

[Jason Cummings]

Been there. At UPS they sword fight with the packages.

[Rodney Kirstine]

Been there. At UPS they sword fight with the packages.

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