My LHS E5SS Build

[Dean H]

Thanks Mike! Couldn't be more satisfied!

yes, all preassembled assemblies need to be taken apart. cleaned, greased, and reassembled with locktight. all of them. glad your enjoying your build!

[Mike Spano]

I love hearing things like that!!!!

[gwright]

I think you'll like the E5SS.  I've got quite a lot of flights on my E5's now,.. the SS with 715/115 blades is 9.75 lbs, but that's with a full 12S/4350 pack, not the "half pack" setups many people use for lower headspeeds. It's great at 1250 and really scoots at 1750. No pack change, just flip a switch!  My other is using 605's and 105 for the blades, both 4.9 tail ratio.  1250 is my lowest rpm due to weight (collective feel) and tail ratio. It'll probably be just fine at lower revs if you go single pack and get it to a lower weight.  As for the 3470's,.. you have to accept responsibility when you use them. They're marketed as car servos not heli servos. With that being said, I have them in both machines and will use them in others in the future. They're really light, and seem to have plenty of speed and torque. I love them.  If I ever do a big machine again, they have a bigger brother in the 9470, which has much more torque. One thing to keep an eye on is CG. I'm using 12S/4350 packs that are roughly 20 ounces each, and on the 600 some 6S/5500's that are 27 ounces. both machines require the packs so far forward they're literally touching the canopy.  of course I have very light ESC's too, which doesn't help the CG issue.  I've drawn out in cad a lengthened battery tray but haven't had it cut yet. Might add that to my winter projects since we can't really fly around here for a few months now.

[Dean H]

Ill be using a Pulse 7S pack and it weighs approx. 12.69 oz. I'm also using a heavier ESC and Motor so I'm hoping that my CG won't be that diffficult to get correct. I take full responsibility for using the S3470 servos. I researched many servos before making my decision and read many of your posts talking about the S3470, so, I compared specs with a few other options and decided that with my flying style (sedate) these would work okay. I am also meticulous about checking my bird's operation before and after flight. During the flight I am cognizant of how it is acting and understand they do have a life span. But at 43 grams these will lighten my payload. I see you are using 115 tail baldes. I purchased the 106. Did you try the 106 on your SS? Did you have an issue with tail authority?

My tail blade selection has been on my mind since ordering the kit. I'm now wondering if the 106's will give me enough tail authority even with the 4.9 gearing. I have seen both baldes used and it appears the 106's hold but, as we know, each build is diffferent....

[gwright]

Sorry, they're 116 rails, not 115's. Must be the age and dementia 
I'm using an Edge HV80 and BEC pro, plus the lightweight hacker turnado,.. so plan for CG accordingly. I barely make CG with this and the 12S/4350 flightpowers. since you'll be about 7 ounces lighter on battery, you're going to need more than that in heavier motor/esc to make up for it and keep CG in range.

With the 116's the tail is locked nicely even at 1250 with aggressive collective use (14+ each way on collective, and LOTS of cyclic pitch). At 1100 I didn't like the collective feel and tail wasn't perfect if super aggressive on the sticks, hence the higher headspeed.Never tried 106's.  Before I flew the synergies I did fly my 800 machine with 115's at 1100 and tail was good but I had a speedup gear custom made to make it 5.1 on the tail. I have 106 tails on the 600 machine and tail is locked solid no matter what you do, but I only fly it down to 1500 (collective feel), and using either 5S or 6S packs. As for the tail holding on the SS with 106's, it's going to depend mainly on your flying style and rpm. I have no doubt they'd be OK at 1250 if not flown aggressively on collective.  Matt flew both my machines at triple tree last year and was all smiles. He's far more aggressive than I am.

[Dean H]

Yeah, CG iis going to be one of the tricky parts of this build. However, Dr. Ben runs a 7S with the Jive Pro 80 and Pyro 650 and I think he got his to CG fairly well but he does have a carbon boom on his so, that may make the difference.

I typically run collective at 12  degrees and cyclic at 8 (standard VBar). Do you run 14 and lots of cyclic due to flying at lower head speeds or is it just personal preference and feel?

Also, with the 716/116's did you hae to pull the tail box back a few mm so the blades don't strike each other?

[Dean H]

This is my first TT heli. When inserting the TT into the boom, is it advisable to use grease or something on yhe o-rings to help it slide in?

[Josh Moen]

Absolutely! Use a little bit of pledge sprayed down the boom or a bit of Boto lube on the o-rings if you have that. Pledge does the trick for me though!

[Dean H]

Thanks, Josh! I use pledge to polish my Harley! That stuff does everything!

[gwright]

Pledge? Perfect,.. no greasy slimy grimey work when you dissasemble/repair. I feel stupid for never thinking of that. First torque tube was around 1990,..upgrade for schluter scout at the time.  Been greasing the carriers ever since, to get them to slide,..then cursing at the mess when dissasembling.  furniture polish sounds like a great idea.

As for the high pitch numbers Dean,.. I always have a goal of making the machine feel the same at all the rpms I use. Haven't arrived there with the Synergies yet, but close. With the high pitch ranges it allows a more crisp feel at low rpms,.. and can be tuned in the radio for the high rpms so the feel and rotational rates remain the same. In the period BS (before Synergy), my favorite machine was an 800 I flew a couple years. it was setup for 1100/1400/1600 and if you put earplugs in so as not to hear it, you could fly it and have someone flip the switch between rpms and you'd never know, unless you tried to fly really fast forward flight at low rpm (retreating blade stall/pitch up). For smooth 3D the rotational rates and feel off center were the same .  The rpm differences only changed the sound,.. and of course how quickly it would stop if you built up a head of steam.

[Dean H]

Thanks for the explanation, Gary. When I fly low head speed on the sim (practicing and getting a feel for LHS prior to E5SS maiden) the collective feels spongy or I"m not reacting quick enough with enough collective. I may try increased pitch but it seems that I need to be careful on the high end as to not stall. I'm thinking I will start with 12 degree + and -, try it out and go from there.

Main frame is complete! Yay! It looks like a heli now! 

[Dean H]

Slowly but surely I am making my way toward completion. I rebuilt the head tonite. Greased the thrust bearings with Boto Lube and indtalled the screws using locktite with the exception of the washout arm pinch bolts.

Also, the picture I have above of half the frame shows the middle main shaft bearing block is upside down. Prior to installing the right side frame I caught the mistake and flipped it over. The bearing blocks are installed in the correct orientation per the manual.

[gwright]

Good job taking your time and doing everything right. I'm normally not that patient, although I did take my time and methodically construct my second one, the 600. Seemed like it took an eternity to build it all that slow. Got the kit on a tuesday if i remember correctly and I didn't even test fly it till the following Sunday  

I generally use 262 on everything except a couple spots. 262 is red but a touch lighter than what we commonly refer to as red locktite, whish I think is 266,..but I forget.  Can still get things appart without heat in the majority of cases, but it's a lot stronger than blue.  Still use blue on blade axles and the pinch bolts you mention. Basically blue on things I think will need removed more often. 

[Dean H]

Hahaha....Thanks, gwright......My first heli was my Goblin 630, believe it or not I learned to fly on that thing, took me about 2 months as I followed the manual methodically and made sure everything was done to specs. My second, my Goblin 700, took me about 4 days.....I had lots of practice rebuilding the G630! LOL With the E5SS I planned to take my time and try to make it last a good part of the winter. However, it's almost done. I am finished the main frame and have the tail ready to install. I have yet to solder the connectors on the ESC and motor but that won't take long.

Hmmm....I'll look into the 262. That seems to be the better choice. Thanks for the advice!

Also, is the center pulse for the S3470's 1520? I'm using my iCharger 308 Duo to center the servos for installing the servo arms as I haven't setup the VBar yet and didn't want to do that until the E5SS ws ready for the complete FBL setup.

[Dean H]

This is awesome! I'm stoked! Almost done!!! 

Still need to confirm the tail box is square and pin it. I also have to install the tail control rod and a few other odds and ends. I have a list of what needs to be done so I won't forget anything. I need to solder the motor and ESC connectors and install the electronics, minus the servos, as well.

Is play between the main gear auto hub bolt and main shaft normal? see video: https://youtu.be/hP8ZxJfa8Xk

Also, if you look at the picture of the tail; do I have enough clearance to run 116 blades if needed? How much will the mains flex? The tail box is pushed all the way in and the blades are 106/716.