April 30, 2024, 01:59:25 AM

Author Topic: N5C Help Needed  (Read 3598 times)

Offline mikedinu@comcast.net

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N5C Help Needed
« on: June 30, 2016, 09:27:47 AM »
Hello all, I need a bit of help with an N5C Belt Driven Tail, Flybarless.
It has a Demon 3SX, OS SHX Hyper (blue head). Bought used of course, finally got it together started flying it and breaking in the engine, leaning it out, getting the headspeed up. First session went fairly normal, engine was rich so a lot of hover, land, check temps, lean a click or two, repeat. It has a governor, a multigov, but it was not yet hooked up. For the next weekend I had put a new set of Rail 96 tail blades on it. The mains are Rail 606. Still flying on throttle curves. At some point during the first flying session we tached the head and it was in the 1800 range. I had read that the heli prefers higher speeds, in the 2100, 2150 range so working towards that. Anyway, first flight with the new tail blades I notice a vibration. Its noticable in hover, so since the tail blades are the only thing new I swap out from one of my other birds. At this point headspeed is still in the 1800 range. The vibration goes away, or calms down enough to not be obvious. Heli is behaving well, so I keep working on leaning the motor since it is obvious that it is rich and not much punchout power. Back plate is cool to the touch. Finally get the motor to a good point. However as the headspeed is increasing I notice that the vibration comes back.  Feeling like the motor is ready for the governor I hook it back up. Will have to confirm the speeds, but they are in the 1850, 2000, 2100 range. At 1850 the heli is pretty calm, 2000, vibration, 2100 a lot of vibration, feel uncomfortable at that level of vibration. I have not checked the main blades for balance yet, and although the tail blades came off another machine that flies smooth I do not know at this point yet if they are 100% balanced. So that's the start of it, at this point I just know I have a vibration issue.
I pull the main blades, they both weigh the same within a gram, and both tip over a round rod at the exact point.  (longitudinal balance?) So I don't think I have a main blade balance issue. I also check  the Rail tail blades that I took of, no problems there. Since the heli is used, I do not know if the main shaft and tail shaft are true. Regardless,one thing I become aware of is that I am spinning my tail in the opposite direction than the manual. The manual says to rotate belt 1/4 turn clockwise. During assembly of the tail section I didnt look at that, I just turned it so that the tail turns as every other heli I have, front tail blade rotates up into downwash of main blade. The belt was not turned more than 90 degrees. In my head you should be able to turn it either way, but since the manual says to turn it the other way, and I have a vibration issue that seemed to be tail related (may not be) I decide to do it the way the manual calls for. The tail belt is a new stock belt, and it has been sprayed with 3M silicone. Spinning it the wrong way I had no issues with the belt setup. Once I corrected it, and start spinning the main head forward by hand, just within a few turns the tail belt does not want to track and actually jumps the tail idler pulley. I forget to what side now. Spinning the head backwards, (spinning the tail in the original wrong direction) has the belt tracking decently. Running it with the tail idler pulley removed to observe natural tracking tendencies shows me that the belt doesnt want to stay in center of the tail belt pulley, and will walk itself over to one side or the other depending on direction of rotation. With idler pulley on in perscribed direction of rotation it jumps the idler pulley, in wrong direction of rotation it stays on.
So thats one of my questions, any ideas what to look for to correct this tail belt tracking issue ?? The are no obvious signs of wear on tail pulley or idler pulley. Only thing possibly weird is that the tail belt leaves a residue on the face of the idler pulley. I believe this is the silicone. From what I read the 3M silicone spray is supposed to be ok to use. The rest of the vibration issues I really cant get bent out of shape over until I put new shafts in it to eliminate any of that possibility, unless all this sounds familiar to someone.  Tail belt tension is probably on the tight side. During spool down, near almost stop I sometimes did hear a few pings that sounded like belt related so I never got around to loosen it up. I have tried several different tensions on the bet while trying to get the belt to track. Didn't help any. Without the tail idler on it will run in any configuration, head forward or backwards, belt clockwise or counterclockwise rotation, but the belt will pull to one side of the tail pulley. With the idler pulley on the tail the belt will only stay inside the idler pullet with the head rotating forward, and belt rotated counterclockwise resulting in backwards from manual setup.
Sorry for long post, wanted to provide detail and info. Thanks for any help !

Offline Mike Spano

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Re: N5C Help Needed
« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2016, 10:25:11 AM »
lots of info there, and hard to read without being separated into more paragraphs, but I think I got it.

for the vibration issue, yes, replace main shaft, head axle, and tail output shaft and see how that helps. check every bearing in the head and main shaft bearings while you are doing this, it could be a bearing as well. I am surprised your having vib issues with the Demon, that thing is almost vib proof. you have a large vibration somewhere.

the belt thing - I have never owned a belt N5, so I will have to let someone else answer that. my only thought would be ensure the idler is installed properly, the boom isn't bent, and that the bolts that hold the tail boom supports on are not run through the boom (too long...I have actually seen a heli that someone did that on. ran the bolts straight through the boom and into the belt).
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Offline Chris Sexton

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Re: N5C Help Needed
« Reply #2 on: June 30, 2016, 10:26:33 AM »
Hello!

Welcome to the Synergy forums!

The belted tail should rotate counter clockwise, or forward blade up into the main rotor wash.  I think maybe the manual is referencing rotating the belt from a different end than you are thinking?  Either way, as long as the grips are oriented right and the blades are turned the right way, it really doesn't matter which way the tail rotates.  The TT version spins opposite, clockwise.

I run my N5c at 1850/1950/2050. Yes it will do 2150, but that's a stretch for the motor in my mind, not to mention your 50 doesn't have the same power band as the 55 most guys are running at 2150.  I do get a bit of resonance at 1800ish, this bird does seem to like 1900+ better.

That said, I would check tail shaft, main shaft, and tail hub. Ant one of the three could be out ever so slightly and cause your issue.

Good luck with the Diag process! Let us know how it goes!

Chris
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Offline Gabriel Sandoval

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Re: N5C Help Needed
« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2016, 10:31:47 AM »
Also the tail belt does not have to be drum tight nor floppy loose either. If you can move the belt slightly 1/8th-1/4" that should be a good ballpark tension for the belt. New belts will also stretch in slightly so check that as well.
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Offline mikedinu@comcast.net

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Re: N5C Help Needed
« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2016, 11:25:52 AM »
Thanks for the replies, sorry it was hard to read. Was trying to cram all the info in on "company time".

I would say that the vibe issues are NOT Demon related or induced at all, more like the Demon is dealing with it quite well. You can see the bottom of the tail fin buzz and turn into a bit of a blur at times.

The boom is new and straight, and not poked through anywhere.

Good to know that at least the tail rotation is correct, just odd that in a reverse direction the belt will actually pull itself right over the flange of the idler. But since I don't plan on running it in reverse I am just happy enough that there is a configuration in which it will stay on.

I agree that trying to get 2150 out of the 50 is too much. Since they quote power as 1.9 ps / 17,000 r.p.m, with an 8.5 ratio I will shoot for 2000 headspeed, maybe 2050 max like you said Chris.

Offline bgymr

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Re: N5C Help Needed
« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2016, 02:52:49 PM »
Hey bud, I have been flying the belt for awhile now.

I would check the top bearing for sure on the main shaft. 

Do you have play in your tail grips?

If you disengage your tail servo, is the tail mechanism free to move?

How tight do you make your main and tail blades.


Offline Danny Dugger

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Re: N5C Help Needed
« Reply #6 on: July 01, 2016, 07:59:14 AM »
Sup Mike, sorry to see you having vibration troubles man. You definitely came to the right place. Check all those bearings over, and if you want me to check runout on any shafts just give me a holler. Hopefully you get it sorted pretty quickly. I can check your tail rotor hub too.

Offline Cliff Chmiel

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Re: N5C Help Needed
« Reply #7 on: July 01, 2016, 08:37:31 AM »
I used a dial indicator for the main , I do not even have to take it out of the ship, I pull the head off, the clamp the indicator to the ship and turn the main really slow. On the head axle I put it in a drill press clamp indicator to the drill press turn by hand, same with tail hub. Dial indicator great investment.
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Offline Danny Dugger

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Re: N5C Help Needed
« Reply #8 on: July 01, 2016, 11:53:40 AM »
Be careful measuring runout with the shaft resting on bearings, they can throw the accuracy as the bearings themselves add some runout. Also measuring on a drill press the runout of the spindle/chuck becomes a factor. V-blocks will give a more reliable measurement and are just as good an investment as a decent indicator.

Offline mikedinu@comcast.net

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Re: N5C Help Needed
« Reply #9 on: July 01, 2016, 12:50:18 PM »
Cool. Will get to measuring soon. What is a good source for v-blocks?

I probably was running my blade grips too tight that day.

Offline Mike Spano

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Re: N5C Help Needed
« Reply #10 on: July 01, 2016, 12:53:05 PM »
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/machinist-v-block

yea, don't ever trust a measurement with the mainshaft still in the bearings. I replace a shaft if its .0015 out. the bearings can hide, or make things worse. chucks too. vblocks are surely the way to go every time.
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Offline Cliff Chmiel

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Re: N5C Help Needed
« Reply #11 on: July 01, 2016, 01:15:15 PM »
Works for quick check, yes v blocks are better, but I don not had them, my press is .0001 off, that's close enough for me
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Offline mikedinu@comcast.net

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Re: N5C Help Needed
« Reply #12 on: July 01, 2016, 02:30:11 PM »
Do you need a pair of vee blocks to check heli shaft runouts? I can see them being a great investment over time but at their cost vs just a shaft its steep. Might be lucky though, will check dad's garage.

Offline mikedinu@comcast.net

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Re: N5C Help Needed
« Reply #13 on: July 06, 2016, 06:45:37 PM »
Didnt ever really need to check the main shaft, I could see it was bent. Only 17 thou though !  :o

Offline Gabriel Sandoval

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Re: N5C Help Needed
« Reply #14 on: July 07, 2016, 02:48:34 PM »
That's too much!
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