Oh yeah Synergy

[Damper]

It has arrived, that is the good news

Bad news need to wrap it and put under the Christmas Tree and wait longer.

[cml001]

Nice.. enjoy the build!

[Rodney Kirstine]

Nice!  At least it's only days away now...

[Grimmy]

So pull the contents out, wrap the box, place it under the tree, and then get to building it in your man cave.   

[Chris Sexton]

So pull the contents out, wrap the box, place it under the tree, and then get to building it in your man cave.   

I like it!


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[Damper]

I inserted the fuel clunk, fuel tank Stopper and fuel tank stopper grommet #(106-810) and it seems to me that

when I have to replace the fuel line later that is not going to be  easy to take out, or it is that dry and new that

the fuel tank stopper#(110-331) will slip out to put a new line inside?

[Jon Yarger]

It is challenging to get it out. I have a set of round needle nose pliers that I use to get it out without damage. You can use a round screw driver to pry the grommet out. Having spare grommets on hand is a good idea.

[Chris Sexton]

Grommet should be replaced anytime you remove it. It’s very easy to tear.


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[Damper]

Oh expendable rubber grommet , makes good sense.

Another question. How come the starter shaft  is thin

walled on the one way bearing in the clutch fan assembly?

[Damper]

I've done the same but a method i use now and i find it quite effective is to get a 1.5mm or 2mm hex driver and using the plain shank of the driver and roll it under the lip of the stopper so it doesn't damage the stopper. Using the driver to pull the stopper out slowly, you can switch sides if needed as this can help the stopper come out, this should allow you to remove the stopper and the grommet without damaging either the stopper or the grommet.

Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Ross

This suggestions works well for future fixes and disassembly of rubber grommet from the fuel tank

[Danny Dugger]

Pull the plastic stopper until you can work a small zip tie between the stopper flange and the grommet. Tighten the zip tie around the stopper and pull the tag end rotating it around and the stopper will pull right out. Super easy.

[Damper]

  OOPPS I got the wrong throttle servo, the BK 7005 multi size. I did not realize that the throttle servo

would be a mini throttle servo cut out on the frame pattern. . I guess I will get the BK 5001 and have two tail

servos, one for back up.

[Damper]

Pull the plastic stopper until you can work a small zip tie between the stopper flange and the grommet. Tighten the zip tie around the stopper and pull the tag end rotating it around and the stopper will pull right out. Super easy.

That is an excellent solution  . I would never have thought of  that one. Thanks

[Damper]

Finished putting the main frame together, nothing tight. I couple errors 1) was the mini throttle servo and 2) the mid mast block was put upside down.

[Damper]

Worked on the N5C  over the weekend holiday. Still waiting for the throttle servo and ball sizer, should be here

 shortly. My receiver and and telemetry parts came in from Graupner. I also had to make a special order for the

 Push Rod End (305-311), they must not have  package them in the kit for some reason, so I will waiting for

about a week  or so for that to be delivered. No worries, still have plenty other things to finish up on and learn.

Found out why the starter shaft is bored out. It fits the crankshaft thread OD inside.

Also while ordering the push rod end came across the Torque Tube End mount upgrade version, so I order that

also.  Will it be alright to fly with socket screw and nylon nut holding the old version of the  TT end  as

assembled? Or will there be  a vibration issue with the tail?