Chasing Ghosts - Fan shroud

[cyprusflyer]

Led up the garden path a bit today, sounded like the fan was rubbing the shroud, so head off and gear out, clutch stack off, loosened the shroud, could hear the noise but it wasn't the b***dy shroud. My OS105 is making a different noise now that it has had fuel and oil through it. Took the exhaust off and quite a bit of oil in there, its making a sort of hissing noise when turning over slowly that sound similar to the shroud rubbing.
Just beware and take into account when checking stuff.
Learning curve but figured why my starter was struggling, not a hydro lock but its running so rich on the book settings there is tons of oil in the engine, had to take the glo plug off again, turn over for a few secs then all was OK. Only run up with no blades in the yard so only the idle set up for now.
I am assuming that once I get closer to good settings and breaking the engine in it should be a lot easier 

[Chris Sexton]

Led up the garden path a bit today, sounded like the fan was rubbing the shroud, so head off and gear out, clutch stack off, loosened the shroud, could hear the noise but it wasn't the b***dy shroud. My OS105 is making a different noise now that it has had fuel and oil through it. Took the exhaust off and quite a bit of oil in there, its making a sort of hissing noise when turning over slowly that sound similar to the shroud rubbing.
Just beware and take into account when checking stuff.
Learning curve but figured why my starter was struggling, not a hydro lock but its running so rich on the book settings there is tons of oil in the engine, had to take the glo plug off again, turn over for a few secs then all was OK. Only run up with no blades in the yard so only the idle set up for now.
I am assuming that once I get closer to good settings and breaking the engine in it should be a lot easier 

OS105HZ-R manual has a very BAD Japanese translation on the factory rich settings. The book reads like you want 2 turns on mid and 2.5 turns on the high. But in reality it should read "1 half turn out on mid and 2 half turns(1 full turn) out on the high"

I had the same problem with flooding my motor on the bench testing. Did a quick google.com search and found the translation issue posted on HeliFreak.

[Rodney Kirstine]

Yeah, that one bit me too.

[flyalan]

Mine was sloppy rich at the the stock settings also. Took some time and prodding from Matt to start leaning things out. Runs great now :-)

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[cyprusflyer]

What the hell, no wonder thought it went through a tank rather quick on the ground! 
In the manual there are 2 conflicting settings, interpreted the wrong way around so Mid is a half turn and high is 1 full turn, give that a go, have head temp on telemetry so can alarm it!
Thanks for that, may speed up the tuning phase a bit

[cyprusflyer]

OK, maiden flight today, just hovering running in the engine, now then, started off with needle settings as discussed, Main = 1 Turn, Mid = 0.5 Turn.
after a gallon both needles were at a quarter turn each!! Only then could I discern a change in HS from Normal to Idle up 1. Telemetry told me that head temp never got above 70 Deg Centigrade and lots of smoke etc.
Tank pressure is quite high and it holds it well even after 30 mins, can only think that needle needs very small amount due to this pressure?
New to Nitro's but this is foxing me a bit.
So what needle settings did you guys end up with on the OS105 HZ-R?


Just out of interest, I took the needle valve assy off, the main needle is the same as the mid (should be as per manual)
The barrels are obviously different because of the regulator. Anyway, with the main fully closed, the needle does not fully shut off, unlike the mid, therefore, the main needle could be quarter to half turn open and still have plenty of fuel.

[Rodney Kirstine]

So, how did the flight go???

[cyprusflyer]

Maiden flight went very well thanks, non event really, I had the VBar gain settings from the Synergy E7 so it flew perfectly straight off and super stable, even did a few auto's.
Tail twitching now and again but put that down to engine tuning. Just got to tame this 105 and having not touched a Nitro for over 20 years a steep learning curve. Last was on planks, its easy, lean for max revs then back off a little.
These 105 needle settings are way off the manual but head temp very low so taking my time to get it run in, I was not confident enough to do anything other than hover and mild punch outs until the engine is sorted.
Starts much easier now though, Sullivan on 3S, allaluya moment every time

[bmclaurin]

Just curious if you're using 30% nitro. If so, did you use the extra head shim?

[cyprusflyer]

I am on stock shims and 15% Nitro, found some threads on HF, the needle settings vary more widely than other engines, some guys running a quarter turn on main so not "out of the box" as such.
I got it all wrong anyway, after watching Finless Bobs and Smacktalk videos on engine tuning last night.
I was trying to get a tune when hovering using the Mid, however, I should have kept it simple, ignore the mid and just get it close on the main, and get it closer. After a gallon of fuel, need to get the engine closer to operating temperature but still slightly rich, otherwise its not breaking it in!
Only then tweak the mid to get it right for lower power manouvres, another day

[cyprusflyer]

Had another go today, wish I hadn't, manage to wipe out my clutch liner, had hold of the blades went out of hold to adjust idle, in ID1! Luckily had the presence of mind not to let go and hit throttle cut. Left blue powder everywhere so set back a week or until UK get some spares! 

What do you glue a liner in with?

Main problem is the OS 105HZ-R tuning, I ended up fully closing the main, a quarter turn on Mid, still running rich with head at 80 Deg Centigrade, only just beginning to discern a change in head speed between flight modes, plenty of smoke, still spluttering rich with no where else to go.
How can this happen, unless the fact that the main needle never gets near cutting fuel off is a mistake by OS 

[Mike King]

Sorry to hear about your liner.  Make sure you clear out ALL remains of the old one before gluing in the new.  I like to use 30 min epoxy when gluing in liners and use a thin layer.

[Darren Lee]

Also, the liner will need to be turned down after installation or else the gap will be very tight.

[cyprusflyer]

Ok thanks, most of the liner disintegrated but working out the remains with acetone and careful scraping, at my wits end with the OS105, will contact Fastlad, crazy to run rich with a closed needle valve!

Post edit, not much joy, I would have to return the whole engine, ordered a 91HZ main needle assy as one guy did recommend on HF, it shuts off completely and needs just over 3 turns out, should give me more resolution for the Carb Smart servo anyway.

Had to order the clutch liner from US (Experience RC), no sign of spares for UK yet!

[Rctintin]

It does not have to be a Synergy liner, I have used the Lynx HD liner in my T-Rex 700n and N5c with no issues.

To fit, put a band of electricians tape around your clutch shoe, fit the liner with Epoxy (30min or more, not 5min) and push the bell into the clutch like it would be installed in the model. This will keep the liner the correct distance from the clutch shoe while it sets. Now remove tape, refit and fly