Soon to be N5C pilot - few questions

[R6Pilot]

Hello everyone,

I have a few questions that I cannot figure out after doing quite a few searches and reviewing the forum(s). 

about me - I fly Spectrum, Dx7, old, I mean old.  Bought it in '07.  It works and I would rather have an N5C than a new radio.  I do sport and mild 3D but always simming and trying to improve.     

While technically I am not an N5C owner, I have sold my X5 to fund the new build.  I am also selling my 450L and a spare AR7200bx to fund the Synergy.  I told the wife I am keeping the Protos 380 and the N5C once it arrives and thats all the heli's I need.  (although we all know thats less than truthful)   

I just placed my order for the OS55HZ-R and pipe from RC Japan.  I ordered the Funtech B323, I have read one or two reviews where people have commented that they really like it.  Does anyone currently run the FT pipe and if so, what do you think?

The other question is regarding the Centerglide bushing.  My plan is to send the motor in once it arrives(wont get the N5C kit til Jan) to get that done but I cannot find any contact info regarding this.  I checked out the Magnum website and didnt find any info.  How does one go about doing that?  Is there a number I need to call or or link? 

On the subject of motor bearings, I am not 100% up to speed on nitro.  I built a Raptor 50 way back in the day with the Redline motor but only flew it(hovered) a few times before I sold it and left the hobby for a bit due to life.  How often do the bearings need to be changed?  I have read a few times a season, 1 a season?  I fly almost every day on the sim, and maybe once a week or so during the spring/summer/fall. 

I have seen Matts video on balancing the fan for the 105 I believe.  Does this apply to the 55 as well?  Should I invest in the Dubro prop balancer or is it not a concern for the smaller motor?

Regarding gov sensor, it sounds like magnet is the best.  Would the align Beastx plus sensor work?  Is there a plug and play magnetic sensor that fits the N5C?  Or, does the backplate sensor be the best route? 

I plan on running HV system.  KST BLS815 cyclics, BLS805X for tail and not sure about throttle.  DS589MG?  I see the JR 3717 is discontinued, which I understood was the "go to" throttle servo for many people.  Any suggestions on throttle servos that fit and perform great?  Does anyone have any experience with the KST servos I have considered? 

If you have made it to here, I sincerely thank you.  I apologize for the very long rambling post but I want all my ducks in a row when the kit arrives.  I cant sleep at nite because I am thinking of this heli.  I am looking forward to the build in the cold/wet months ahead and plan on having the motor broken in when the first few sunny days of spring arrive.  For those of you who also offer suggestions, wisdom, I cannot thank you enough. 

Thanks again, Dave

[Chris Sexton]

Welcome to the synergy family!

Funtech is a great pipe. You’ll do well with it.

Center glide is nice but I never personally did it.

Yes balance the fan/hub and clutch bell.

Use a good HV throttle servo. It’s imperative for proper gov performance.

Never used that gov sensor. I always used the align magnetic sensor with ikon vbar and neo.

No experience with KST servos.

Hope this helps!  Ask plenty of questions. We are here to help. Plenty of active synergy owners here.


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[Jon Yarger]

I've bought three used engines with Center Glide bearings. I've had issues with all three. Removing the Center Glide fixed my issues every time. I know some people have good luck with them though. I would run the engine with the standard bearing until it fails. Then decide if you need to go to a Center Glide. You will love the n5c. It's a very fun heli.

[Rodney Kirstine]

Welcome! I agree with Chris and Jon on the engine bearing thing.  You might as well run it stock at first and you can always decide to go to the centerglide later if you want.  I have not used one in any of my engines so I don't really have an opinion positive or negative about them.  I do know for a fact that the OS 55 will run great, stock out of the box, though.  I have a Funtech B320 pipe that I run on mine and it's been really easy to tune with. 

[R6Pilot]

Thank you all for the responses.  Good info.  Sounds like centerglide is not necessary at the moment.  I'll skip it for now and just run it.

Will any good quality mini tail servo work for throttle?  I'm only concerned about fitment.  I understand it needs to be fast, at least faster than the cyclics. 

Any recommendations on a starter?  Something that won't break there bank but works well? 

Thanks again, Dave.  I know I'll have plenty more questions. 


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[Chris Sexton]

Tail servos are not a bad idea for the throttle as long as it’s a 1520 center pulse. Most fbl units will not allow for a narrowband servo on the throttle.

As for starters you get what you pay for. I learned a long time ago in this hobby buy quality once, buy cheap twice. I highly recommend the Sullivan dynatron with the rubber cup Not the hard mounted shaft. The hard mounted wands are certainly nice but if you get one that’s even one thousandth of an inch out of true at RPM it will shatter the starter Hex adaptor. With the rubber cup style the rubber acts as a dampener and absorbs the vibration.


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[R6Pilot]

Thank you Chris.  I have some time to figure out starter.  I definitely do not want to go cheap.  Everything is coming together, motor from rc Japan has been released from customs in San Francisco, all servos have been ordered, blades, Switchglo Pro, and fuel tubing is at home.  I just finished ordering the fuel filter, clunk and du bro balancer. 

 I need the kit, some lemons, starter, fuel and done.  I'm itching to build. 

I'll be back with more questions I'm sure.  Thanks again, Dave

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[LWilliams1214]

I have been running the center glide bushing in my 55hz-r for almost three years trouble free. It's not a necessary MOD like others have stated. When I was using standard ball bearings in the engine I would replace them twice a year along with the piston ring and e clips for the wrist pin as my maintenance routine (yours may not be as often depending on how much you fly). For starters you can't go wrong with the dynatron especially if you plan to get a 90 size nitro one day.  I personally use a Hobbico Torque 90 for my 55hz-r but it won't start anything larger than a 60.

My setup

Synergy N5c

OS55HZR
HATORI PIPE
XPERT 4401HV Cyclic servos Xpert 2202HV tail servo Xpert MI 3301 HV throttle
Vbar NEO
TruGlo
Spektrum backplate sensor
Rail 606 main blades Rail 96 tail blades

Enjoy the build.

[R6Pilot]

Hello LWillams, thank you for the input.  I'll look at that starter.  I'm not planning a 700 nitro, but I also wasn't planning getting into nitros again when I got back in the hobby a few years ago. 

Right now I'm trying to figure out how to set up electronics.  I'm using an old Ikon 1 I had laying around.  I've read it can take 8.4v so it would seem I do not need a regulator?  All my servos are HV.  Do you guys use a switch and plug directly into the fbl as long as I use a 2 cell lipo?  Or no switch?  Apologize for very noob questions but I have very distant hx with nitros. 

Also, is the MOAS clunk worth the extra money vs standard clunk? 

Thanks Dave

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[Jon Yarger]

No one here will ever have a problem answering any questions. For a switch, I use a Perfect Regulator failsafe switch with a built in glow igniter. You could also go without a switch if you prefer. The Moas is a nice clunk. I use them in all my nitros. You can pretty much suck the tank dry.

[Gabriel Sandoval]

Personally I have had excellent results with the Lynx MOAS clunks they will suck the tank dry.

[R6Pilot]

Great guys, thank you.  Next order is going out for the MOAS, and other assorted bits and pieces.  Seems every time I turn around I find something else I need.  Like the crankcase locking tool, botosizer, etc.  It's coming together though.  Plan is to get in the kit last and have everything thing needed to build and fly. 

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[Jon Yarger]

I've built a few n5c's and n7's. I haven't needed a crank locking tool on any of them. With the pinch bolts on the fan hub you shouldn't tighten the prop nut very tight. It should just be used to snug the hub up to the washer. It may be nice to have but it's not really a must.

[R6Pilot]

I've built a few n5c's and n7's. I haven't needed a crank locking tool on any of them. With the pinch bolts on the fan hub you shouldn't tighten the prop nut very tight. It should just be used to snug the hub up to the washer. It may be nice to have but it's not really a must.

Right on, will i ever need one then?  For changing bearings or can that be done without one? 

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[Jon Yarger]

You shouldn't need it for changing bearings. If you remove the prop nut before loosening the pinch bolts your fine without it. Once you loosen the pinch bolts you should be able to easily pull the hub off.