Play in main grips/head

[Supa Koopa]

Hi,

I have noticed a significant amount of play in the grips on my heli. It has only had 4 or 5 flights so far, but you can move a grip vertically by at least 3 or 4mm (rocking motion one up and the other down) with very little force. There is also a slight amount of lateral play, you can pull a grip out by maybe 1mm. This seems a little excessive. I have taken it apart to ensure I have all the correct spacers and everything is assembled as it should be. Comparing it to my old N5 flybarless head, which is basically the same just a different colour, it does not have anywhere near as much play. Are the dampers shot already or is this normal, it certainly doesn't seem like it is. You can hear a sort of clicking as you rock it back and forth.

Thanks for any help.

[ktargett]

I added shims either side of the head on mine to remove this movement, although it wasn't as much as 1mm movement!  I think it was a 15thou shim either side I added.

You could also try new dampers as apparently there are some that came out softer than others. 

Regards

Kevin

[Branden Wheaton]

+1 for new dampers
I had the same problem

[Supa Koopa]

Thanks Branden, looks like new dampers it is then. Shame really to be replacing dampers after 4 gentle tuning flights. Was trying to set the Vbar up, so was going easy with it. My attention was drawn on the last flight where the vbar was very quick of centre when hovering, but normal in flight. This is unusual for a Vbar (3 so far, soon to be 4) setup.

[Jean-Luc Bolduc]

you can wrap teflon white plumbing tape one or twice around the dampeners to tighten them up a bit. The od gets a little tighter which squeezes the id.
Although  on my E6 I replaced the dampeners because they were a little loose, I did not notice a difference  or improvement with my v-bar 5.2 .

[Matt Botos]

You should shim it. The stock dampers are meant to be compressed slightly.
This is normal.

Thanks,

Matt

[JVZ]

what size shims?

[Matt Botos]

The shims are there for your specific configuration needs. Some pilots like lower head speeds which many times needs a softer head which means less or no shimming. Others like hard 3D at higher head speeds which means more shims. Basically this is up to you to find the sweet spot that you like. Start with an additional .5mm shim on each side and go from there.

Hope that helps.

Matt

[Supa Koopa]

I changed the dampers over last night from my N5 head, and low and behold the movement went away. I then placed the E6 ones in the N5 head and there was the same movement. The E6 dampers I received in my kit are not the correct size. They are a loose fit in the hub and on the shaft. I've ordered a new set from my LHS and they are the same part number as the N5.

I agree with what you say and bow to your wisdom that they can be shimmed for preference, but I feel mine were out of spec. Just replacing them with a worn set should have revealed the same amount of play if it was simply a case of adding more shims. This did not happen and they made the head feel a lot better. I'll fit the new ones when I get them and see what happens.

Many thanks Matt for your help.

[Matt Botos]

In the very beginning many people complained the dampers were too hard and the machine would wobble at lower head speeds. The very first run of dampers had zero damping which is probably what is in your N5. Today, the dampers are slightly different to allow for a more broad range of satisfaction with customers. Odds are you are going to get the same dampers you have in your E6 and you will need to shim your head in order to get the damping you are looking for. I run all of my heads with slight compression and they are very stiff. Hope that helps.
On Branden's comment, I sent him a very old set of dampers that were laying around which is why he found they worked better for him.

Thanks,

Matt

[Branden Wheaton]

Thanks Matt I see how it is. lol

[Matt Botos]

LOL! I knew what you wanted.

[JVZ]

one side of my main blade grips is very stiff the other seems fine. any ideas?

[Kevin Feil]

Jerry,

First things first,
Make sure you have the Thrust Bearings and all properly installed. Next make sure your spindle is lubed, and make sure the spindle is centered. I had the same thing happen a while back and went back and disassembled and reassembled and all was perfect. Just make sure you do your checks and balances. Keep us posted

Kevin

[JVZ]

Thanks Kevin,

I spoke with Ralph and he walked me through it. Turns out I don't have .5 shims in my kit. I received two sets of 1.0 and one set of .82 shims. I use a good set of certified Mitutoyo calipers from work so I know they are correct. I took apart the head again removed both 1.0 shims and installed on each side the .82 shims. The blade grips are free spinning now, not too lose and doesn't seem to be any play in them.