Torque tube build thread...

[flyalan]

Thought I'd start this off.  Received my TT today!  I will be putting it on the E7 I just bought off RunRyder.  Heli won't be here until tomorrow.  My other E7 now has the Kevlar belt so I will leave that one alone for comparison.
Hoping to hear from those of you that are upgrading today and tomorrow.  I'm sure at least one person will be up tonight putting the TT on :>)

Want to hear how it goes. Tips, Etc.. 

Cheers,
Alan

[beans07]

Justin did you back the front or back of the TT off any to allow for movement/expansion?

Mine seems a good fit without any binding so I am not sure if it is needed?

Only one isse with mine and that was the hole in the locnut was drilled off center for the front gear set screw. I just used red loctite and made sure it was firm enough without any binding up. It doesn't run true but doesn't seem to be causing any issue.

[Shane Butler]

TT is in. No problems to speak of just had to wind out tail rod links but have at least 10 turns on so should be good to go. A little adjustment of V Bar to set new end points. Easy peasy.  Do check all bolts for loctite, a lot did not have any. Wasn't even to hard to do the option of boom pins. I don't want my boom to fly off, not that I have had any trouble with Synergys.

[flyalan]

.......

My gear mesh was a little tight from the auto rotation gear to the front TT gearbox gear, so I just filed the holes  a little bit that the front gearbox bolts  to on the frame, and now gear mesh is perfect.

Can't wait to get this badboy in the air now. 


Justin

Same here.  Just a bit tight.  Otherwise an impressive piece of engineering!  I did try loosening all of the main shaft bearing supports to see if there was enough play to free up the mesh to the TT gear.  No Joy.  I did elongate the TT box mounting holes just a bit also.

Thanks for sharing.

Alan

[Matt Botos]

Guys,

Since many complained of too much up/down in the main gear previously, I tightened up the tolerance on the auto hub assembly for the TT system. With that said, some with rotate perfectly, some will be a bit tight. If yours is tight, simply sand one of the delrin shims down a bit and it will rotate freely.

I do not recommend slotting any holes as the mount distance is based on a mathematical equation for proper spur gear mount distance. Any deviation from the may create problems.

Thanks,

Matt

[rchaas]

So, as asked in the previous thread...sounds like we should leave out the brass main shaft shim?

Robbie

[Shane Butler]

Robbie, I had the brass shim above the boss also but have now taken it out. I think this has loosened it up enough (on the bench) without having to sand a delrin shim. It kind of looks like it is used by looking at the picture in manual but does not mention using it. I have not elongated any holes as a couple of guys have done. I will test this out next weekend and then reacess if I have to sand a shim as Matt suggests. I have also noticed that if you tighten the jesus bolt too much makes it tight. It uses a lock nut so does not have to be so tight to squeese water out of it!

[rchaas]

Thanks.

After posting, i went and fiddled a bit.  Seems to fit with no play, without the brass shim.  I had to sand the delrin shim a bit as well...still not satisfied I've sanded enough (rotates freer, but not totally free), but as you say, maybe stop now, fly it a bit and see if everything settles.  Might sand just a touch more. 

thanks

[Matt Botos]

The brass shim is not needed anymore so you can leave that out.

The nylock nuts should only be tightened enough so that the bolt is not moving around. Over tightening can stretch the bolt and create a weak bolt. This area is especially critical since the bolt is under a high amount of stress.

Hope that helps!

Thanks,

Matt

[Shane Butler]

Thanks Matt, Nice to be on the same page communication wise. I get there eventually LoL.

[stevehof]

Got my first torque tube installed. I did need to make a new tail control rod. Just too few threads left in the ball links with my original rod build. Very good that Matt included a spare rod in the kit. I also had to sand a considerable amount (.002 to .003 inch) off one of the Delrin shims. The danged Hacker has no noticeable magnetic drag and with the two shims as stock it would pull the main gear and motor around until the disk stopped. After all is said and done. Looks great and works fine.

Does anybody know if the tail drive ratio is the same as the belt drive??

Thanks, Steve

[Jean-Luc Bolduc]

Not exactly the same ratio, but very close.

[Yanick Larouche]

Hi Jean-Luc!

With the new ratio, the tail speed faster or not?

Thank's !

Yan

[Jean-Luc Bolduc]

4.5:1 new TT ratio. 4.66:1 belt ratio.  A small fraction slower, but only means 344 rpm on tail at 2150hs, tails still spins at 9,675 rpm 

[Shane Butler]

Got to test my TT again and it looks like I won't need to sand shims. Had a little hold up due to DX8 pots failing. Anyway it is all good now. Bring on the E5!