Yge 120 lv

[Guiwee]

Anyone care to share their settings with me with the scorpion 4025-1100kv motor
For timing and own..etc
This thing isn't the easiest to program coming from castle!!!

[Chuck Bole]

 Not sure if this will help but here is a thread on HF about the same ESC and motor.

chuck
http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=426194&highlight=Scorpion+4025+550

[Airbass]

this is my set up
http://synergyrchelicopters.com/forum/index.php?topic=2062.msg19938#msg19938

YGE120LV set parameters

Timing: 18°
Brake: Off
Cut Off:  Slow Down
Cut off Voltage: 3.2V
Cells: 6
Special functions: blank
Act free wheel: On
Gov Mode: Store (I have stored at 3,85V per cell with pinion disengaged)
P gain: default
I gain: default
Start up speed: Heli middle
PWM: 8 KHz
Startup power: 4% (Tried Auto first but was giving a too hard kick; 2% is not even sufficient to start the motor)

Go to Mr Mel's videos. He explained Programming very well

http://heli.dacsa.net/MrMelSite/styled-4/index.html

 

[Guiwee]

Great vids..thanks Airbass. Another question if I may?
Should I use the Ikons gov or the yges gov. Im coming from the beastx and
it didn't have one.Ran my trex550 with the talon 90 and used the escs gov.
I have Ikons on everything and never used their gov before. Always castles..
but now Im moving up in the world (ikon,Yge)

[Rodney Kirstine]

Normally, you'll want to use your FBL controller's governor instead of the ESC.  Since the FBL controller is processing all of your inputs as you fly, it can be proactive in governing the head speed as it makes its cyclic/collective changes where an ESC's governor has to react to the changes in load. 

There are a few exceptions.  Some FBL controller governors do not seem to get along well with some ESCs.  I just did a very quick search and it looks like the brain/ikon and the yge get along just fine, though.

[Airbass]

+1 on Rodney's post.

Remember that YGE120LV comes with an rpm signal output.

At the moment I am using the ESC gov and I would say it is more than enough for me. I will move to Vbar gov as soon as I update to the pro version.

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[Guiwee]

The finished product!!!
http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww151/guiwee/image5.jpeg
The Fleet!!!

http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww151/guiwee/image8.jpeg
http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww151/guiwee/image7.jpeg
http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww151/guiwee/image10.jpeg

[Airbass]

Uau, great!

Did you shorten the motor wires or the yellow ones? I have a lot of redundancy on mine while you don't.

If you don'mind I would comment on the laying side of the esc. In my opinion the heat sink will dissipate more if you turn the esc up side down.

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[Guiwee]

Yeah I probably will change the mounting of the esc..don't really like the strap on gig I have going....No I did nothing to the wires..all stock.You have any photos of yours? What do you mean by a lot of redundancy?The esc doesn't have a heat sink..though Ill probably get one for it by the time I maiden it!! Still a foot and half of snow here..and wind chill makes it below zero!!!! Brrrrrrr!!!

[Airbass]

Yeah I probably will change the mounting of the esc..don't really like the strap on gig I have going....No I did nothing to the wires..all stock.You have any photos of yours? What do you mean by a lot of redundancy?The esc doesn't have a heat sink..though Ill probably get one for it by the time I maiden it!! Still a foot and half of snow here..and wind chill makes it below zero!!!! Brrrrrrr!!!

The big cold in the USis on the news  also in Italy. Sorry for that  . I wish you a good weather soon. 

By redundancy I meant the loop of my wires, as shown  in the pictures. This is not a problem though.

The ESC consists of two PCB's. On top of those boards there is a metal plate where the label is printed. I guess it is a heat dissipator. That's why I would keep it exposed to the air side.

With my set up everything is just warm after any flight. I don't need a real heat sink.

[MyRCode]

this is my set up
http://synergyrchelicopters.com/forum/index.php?topic=2062.msg19938#msg19938

YGE120LV set parameters

Timing: 18°
Brake: Off
Cut Off:  Slow Down
Cut off Voltage: 3.2V
Cells: 6
Special functions: blank
Act free wheel: On
Gov Mode: Store (I have stored at 3,85V per cell with pinion disengaged)
P gain: default
I gain: default
Start up speed: Heli middle
PWM: 8 KHz
Startup power: 4% (Tried Auto first but was giving a too hard kick; 2% is not even sufficient to start the motor)

Go to Mr Mel's videos. He explained Programming very well

http://heli.dacsa.net/MrMelSite/styled-4/index.html

I'm using the same settings as above except with Auto start up power....oddly there's no kick on mine. 

I did have an overheat warning on one flight towards the afternoon on back to back flights.  I think my heat sink wasn't attached very well to the metal plate.  I was able to pull it off with minimal force.  I've since re-attached it using Arctic Silver thermal paste and haven't had any issues.

Mark

[Airbass]

Pics please!!!

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[MyRCode]

Pics please!!!

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I'll get some pics up close this weekend.

[MyRCode]

Here's some quick photos I snapped at the field today.

I'm running a HC3SX with a FrSky x8r receiver w/ voltage telemetry.

Did 3 back to back flights and was trying to get the ESC to overheat with a lot of pitch pumps.  Didn't get the overheat warning like I did when the ESC wasn't attached well, so I think it's all good now.

[Airbass]

Very nice, thank you. Did the heat sink come with the ESC or did you buy it separately?

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