Electronic Assembly Help

[NKY Heli Guy]

That worked great thanks!

I'm now at the motor installation part (page 30) and I'm ignorant to what this statement is referring to "Helical Gear Mesh - Set gear mesh with minimal lash but do not set for zero lash. High pressure grease is recommended for smooth operation." Huh?

I'm assuming from my other builds its saying to set it but not to tight or loose... but how much is to much and vice versa?

And this may sound really stupid so go easy as I'm still a newb how do you know if the main gear and the auto bearing hub are set up correctly? The manual speaks that the auto hub assembly can be installed either way how do I know if I have it right?

[stevehof]

Move the motor and pinion support block toward the main gear until you can just barely feel them touch. Now there should be no 'wiggle' room when you try to rock the main gear back and forth. Not a tight push fit but just touching. Now back off both the motor and pinion support block until you can feel just the smallest amount of back and forth rotation on the main gear. Anything just short of a touch fit is good enough. Tighten both the motor and pinion block and try again. If you still have just a tiny bit of back and forth rocking motion with the main gear you are good so long as the main gear is perfectly concentric.

Test for this by rotating the main gear 45 degrees and checking for same amount of 'gear lash'. Do this three times to cover the entire diameter of the main gear. If you don't have any spots that are completely tight, you are set to go on gear adjustment. If you run into a tight spot, back off both motor and bearing block at the tight spot until you have just the slightest amount of back and forth movement.

People also adjust gear mesh by inserting a piece of paper between pinion and main gear and pushing the two together and tighten up both mount blocks. Personally, I prefer the 'touch' method where you feel for a tiny bit of gear lash. The smallest amount is OK so long as there are no tight spots in the rotation.

Auto hub is correctly installed on the main gear when you the main shaft is inserted from the top and the shaft cannot be rotated counter clockwise.

[RichL]

That worked great thanks!

I'm now at the motor installation part (page 30) and I'm ignorant to what this statement is referring to "Helical Gear Mesh - Set gear mesh with minimal lash but do not set for zero lash. High pressure grease is recommended for smooth operation." Huh?

I'm assuming from my other builds its saying to set it but not to tight or loose... but how much is to much and vice versa?

And this may sound really stupid so go easy as I'm still a newb how do you know if the main gear and the auto bearing hub are set up correctly? The manual speaks that the auto hub assembly can be installed either way how do I know if I have it right?

  Gear mesh refers to how tightly the gears are pressed together (or meshed).  Gear lash refers to the amount of play between two gears. If two gears are meshed together too loosely you will be able to move one gear a small distance without moving the other gear (a very small amount of gear lash is desirable) .  Gears pressed together to tightly will feel notchy and are some what difficult to turn.  The danger with a gear mesh being to tight is that the gears will quickly overheat, to loose and there will be slop in the gear train that can result in breaking teeth off the main gear.  The paper trick works pretty well for for setting gear mesh until you have a feel for doing it by hand.  Cut a strip of ordinary printer paper about the same thickness as your main gear. Loosen your motor mounting bolts on the side of the frame and the motor pinion support mount.  Now slide the the two (motor and pinion support bearing) toward the the main gear push them together firmly.  Now, without tightening the bolts feed the strip of paper you cut between the motor pinion and the main gear slowly by turning the main gear slowly but smoothly.  The paper should come out looking like an accordion and should not be cut completely through. Your gear mesh should now be set correctly.  Tighten up the bolts previously left loose and rotate the main gear checking for smoothness. If you find areas that are tight loosen the bolts as before and run another piece of paper through making sure that the tight area passes through the pinion with the paper.  As Steve said, once you have felt a proper gear mesh it is much easier to mesh the gears by hand but the paper should get you in the ball park.  If you have doubts have someone more experienced at your local flying site check it out.  One other note, your gear train will smooth out significantly after about 15-20 flights due to the pinion and the main gear getting acquainted,     Moly Kote works great for the delrin gears and helps with the break in process.  Check your PM box if you need further clarification.  Below is a link for the Moly Kote.

Rich

   http://www.readyheli.com/TTRE9011-Plastic-Gear-Grease_p_38387.html   

[RichL]

Move the motor and pinion support block toward the main gear until you can just barely feel them touch. Now there should be no 'wiggle' room when you try to rock the main gear back and forth. Not a tight push fit but just touching. Now back off both the motor and pinion support block until you can feel just the smallest amount of back and forth rotation on the main gear. Anything just short of a touch fit is good enough. Tighten both the motor and pinion block and try again. If you still have just a tiny bit of back and forth rocking motion with the main gear you are good so long as the main gear is perfectly concentric.

Test for this by rotating the main gear 45 degrees and checking for same amount of 'gear lash'. Do this three times to cover the entire diameter of the main gear. If you don't have any spots that are completely tight, you are set to go on gear adjustment. If you run into a tight spot, back off both motor and bearing block at the tight spot until you have just the slightest amount of back and forth movement.

People also adjust gear mesh by inserting a piece of paper between pinion and main gear and pushing the two together and tighten up both mount blocks. Personally, I prefer the 'touch' method where you feel for a tiny bit of gear lash. The smallest amount is OK so long as there are no tight spots in the rotation.

Auto hub is correctly installed on the main gear when you the main shaft is inserted from the top and the shaft cannot be rotated counter clockwise.

Great minds think alike but you type faster that I do. 

[NKY Heli Guy]

Great explanations guys. Makes perfect sense! I'm now installing the motor and hoping to do what you mentioned above. However when I put the Motor Pinion Support Bearing Block in with the motor bracket the holes for the motor bracket do not line up with the holes in the frame. I've got the Motor Pinion Support Bearing Block face up like the manual shows... should I flip it around with the opening for the bearing block (how you would put the bearing in) facing down? Seems if it was done this way it would create friction on the pinion. I'm using a Scorpion 4025-1100kv..... seems like the motor shaft is long or something.

Any advice?

[NKY Heli Guy]

See the holes on the right they don't line up with the bracket. I'm sure it's me not the kit


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[Mike Schneider]

Loosen your pinion and slide it farther up the motor shaft.   From the pic it doesn't look like the entire pinion is in contact with the main gear. The pinion should rest easily on the bearing on the same side the bearing would be inserted into the support block.

Pic to follow soon.

[NKY Heli Guy]

The pinion won't move up any further as it has a little grove that stops it... or felt like it did. Can you slide your pinion beyond the lip at the end?


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[NKY Heli Guy]

I'm an idiot! There is no lip on the pinion it does push through Question though should the motor shaft go into the bearing a bit?

[Chris Sexton]

Yes the motor shaft should extend down into the bearing a bit. The more it goes through the better. Just make sure when you are done that that pinion is resting on the support bearing.


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[RichL]

Yes the motor shaft should extend down into the bearing a bit. The more it goes through the better. Just make sure when you are done that that pinion is resting on the support bearing.


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+1 exactly what Chris said.  Also double check that you have the orientation of the bearing facing up as you did in the beginning.  If the bearing is facing down it will fall out and your motor bearings will have a very very short life as will your motor and main gear.

Rich

[NKY Heli Guy]

Thanks guys! Worked perfectly, on to the tail section now. Rich thanks for the call today it was a great conversation and a huge help, tank you thank you.


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[RichL]

You are very welcome.  Happy I could help.  Again welcome to the Synergy family!

Rich

[Mike Schneider]

You are very welcome.  Happy I could help.  Again welcome to the Synergy family!

Rich

We're family?  Can I have a loan?

[RichH]

If Rich didn't mention it, be sure slide down the pinion so it rests on the support bearing.  It's intended to take some of the thrust load generated by the beveled gears.